Watchmakers go beyond traditional shapes with various unusual form watches that set themselves apart from the crowd.
Pictured above: Cartier Privé Cloche de Cartier
Introduced as a collector’s collection, the exquisite Cartier Privé collection exalts theMaison’s mystical models to legendary status through a series of limited and numbered pieces. The enigmatic Cloche de Cartier is the latest model on the cards of Cartier Privé, named after its bell-shaped form first released in 1920.While it is designed as a wrist watch, its whimsical orientation doubles up as a desk clock when set on the table—its 12 o’clock position is shifted 90° clockwise.
Close inspection of the watch hands positioning shows the deliberate attempt to amplify the asymmetrical layout of the Cloche de Cartier as it is flushed closer to the right side or within the case towards the top. Cartier’s Manufacture 9626 MC movement highlights the Maison’s virtuosity in watchmaking with a see-through skeleton execution.
The Cloche de Cartier is produced in various precious metals with the crème dela crème crafted from a platinum case encrusted with brilliant-cut diamonds on the case, crown and buckle approximating one carat in total
Bvlgari Serpenti Seduttori
Born in the 1950s, the Bvlgari Serpenti evokes ancient Greek and Roman mythology of a seductive serpent representing wisdom, vitality, and seduction. Crafted in a coiled serpentine form, Bvlgari elevates the notion of jewellery watches to greater heights as the iconic creation has taken numerous forms and colours over the decades celebrating the pizzaz of the Roman jeweller.
As the Serpenti evolved over time, different iterations such as the Tubogas and Spiga sprang forth, with one the newest being the Serpenti Seduttori. Bvlgari takes a modernised interpretation of the Serpenti with a slimmer and daintier drop-shaped watch head. The coiled body of the Serpenti is now rendered in a planar form with an alluring free-flowing bracelet that mimics the fluid motions of a snake.
A further nod to the significance of the serpent sees its scales recreated in hexagonal motifs lining the entirety of the bracelet. The elegance of the Serpenti Seduttori is finished with a black lacquered dial, 38 brilliant-cut diamonds and a crown set with a cabochon-cut rubellite.
Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0
Born in 1976 and resurrected again in 2022, Girard-Perregaux marks spring with the release of the Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0. In 1976, Girard-Perregaux debuted the futuristic Casquette characterised by a quartz-powered tubular LED display and the structure of a 1970s muscle car. Incidentally, it bore the name Reference 9931 from the start until aficionados gave it the Casquette moniker later on.
Forty-four years on, the zeitgeist returns, encased in a sleek scratch-resistant ceramic case emblazoned with a period GP logo, replete with a Grade 5 titanium case back. Both materials, known for their lightweight and hypoallergenic properties, contribute significantly to the Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0’s wearing comfort with the help of the rubber-lined ceramic bracelet. In common with the original Casquette, the Girard-Perregaux Casquette2.0 displays the hours, minutes, seconds, day, and date. The new movement comes with some additional functions, including the month, year, chronograph, second-time zone and secret date.
The latter function allows the wearer to save a memorable date of the wearer’s choosing. The secret date (date, month and year)can be shown each day at a time specified by the wearer. To preserve battery life, the time can be viewed on-demand, allowing the battery to last up to two years— assuming time is checked 20 times a day.
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 White Diver
Scour through the Bell & Ross family of watches and you will notice a common theme of square and circle running throughout. Both shapes are emblematic of the Franco-Swiss watchmaker renowned for their timekeeping instruments. Having made their name with a keen sense of identity in aviation, Bell & Ross brings their expertise from the air to the underwater depths with their Diver collection.
The BR 03-92 Diver White does not deviate much from its diving predecessors as design cues remain consistent such as the iconic rounded square case and aeroplane dashboard interpreted dial. What sets it apart is the choice of colour—as this is the first time white is being used as the primary dial colour.Inspired by icy seas, polar oceans and frozen lakes, the BR 03-92 Diver White is perfect for those exploring mysterious ice-covered landscapes. The ISO 6425 rated case allows you to submerge the watch in water with peace of mind as it adheres to international standards for dive watch specifications.
Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon
If Franck Muller were to produce a dictionary, the alphabet ‘C’ will feature two words central to the watch manufacture—the Cintrée Curvex and complications. The former has been embedded into the DNA of Franck Muller since 1992 as a reference to its iconic curved tonneau case and the latter a nod to Franck Muller’s pedigree in watchmaking.The Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon combines both entities into a single masterpiece, dazzling audiences with its sensuous shape and curves.
A slight tweak to the emblematic case design sees the Grand Central Tourbillon sport a new sapphire crystal design that spans the entirety of the case made possible by an innovative invisible bezeldesign. Positioned in the middle of the dial is a large-scale 60-second tour billon elevated slightly for greater depth.The grand spectacle breaks new ground as it is the first central tourbillon set in a tonneau case.
Crafting the dial beneath is no easy feat as well—it has to follow the same curvature of the case while maintaining the best execution of the guilloche and detailing.
This story about unusual watches first appeared in our April 2022 issue!
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