It takes some nerve to open up a restaurant in the year of a pandemic and perhaps even more talent to do so. Chef Rishi of Cloudstreet and Cheek Bistro fame has both qualities in buckets full. He launched Kotuwa just over a little year ago, a Sri Lankan restaurant that offers the heat-searing delight of the island while grounding it in mod-European cooking.
Sounds like a mouthful which it most certainly is at Kotuwa but here, we’ll let Chef Rishi do the talking about the searing delight that is Sri Lankan cuisine.
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Hi Chef, let’s start off with this question — for those who are strangely uninitiated, what makes Sri Lankan cuisine that damn yummy?
It’s comfort food and it’s food that warms the soul. The use of spices, chillies, textures, aromatics and acidity all play a part in making Sri Lankan food very light, welcoming and easy to enjoy. We use a lot of fresh ingredients like onions, coconut cream, shredded coconut and spices.
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The ratio of ingredients is different from Indian food and we like to use a lot of tamarind and lime, so there is a lot more acidity in the dishes. This characteristic, coupled with the fact that we don’t use much butter or ghee in our cooking, makes Sri Lankan food light yet big on flavour; and I believe it is a style of food the local crowd enjoy.
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Have you tweaked the recipes at Kotuwa for a Singaporean’s palate?
We try to keep the recipes as authentic as possible, but made improvements to some recipes to suit the restaurant crowd. We also had to cut down on the chillies that we use. Because in Sri Lanka, they use a lot more chilli, and the spice levels of their food is much higher than what the locals would prefer.
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When you say quality ingredients, what do you mean exactly? Are you able to quantify it?
I am very picky about my ingredients and we only use high quality produce. All our meats are Australian meats and of the same quality as those that we use at Cloudstreet or Cheek. The seabass we use at Kotuwa is the same as the ones we use at Cheek, and the prawns we use are high quality prawns with a better texture, flavour and size.
Yes, they are expensive for us, but it makes a massive difference in the dish.
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Sambols, achraru and preserves — what are exactly they and how do they elevate the dining experience at Kotuwa? Do you have an interesting story in the R&D behind them?
They are unique to the country and are a household staple in Sri Lankan cuisine. Achcharus and preserves are pickled fruit or vegetable served on the side, that add a kick of tanginess and spice, brightening the meal.
For example, our Lychee Achcharu, which is lychee pickled in mustard, apple cider and chillies. Lychees are not usually found in Sri Lanka but I wanted to try pickling them and see how they turn out. They were great! We managed to achieve a good balance of sweet, sour and spice, coupled with the texture of lychees, it is a great palate cleanser and packs a punch in the flavour department.
Sambols are traditional Sri Lankan condiments that add flavour and texture to the meal when eaten as an accompaniment, and balances the dishes out. For example, our Pol Sambol (fresh shredded coconut, chillies and lime) and Seeni Sambol (spiced caramelised onions with tamarind) — great eaten with rice, dhal, and hoppers.
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What is your favourite dish at Kotuwa then and what is the story behind it?
Kottu Roti. It’s something I eat in Sri Lanka when I’m out with my friends, like hangout food. When my friends and I used to go out and party, I used to grab some to eat on the way home.
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It’s just flavourful comfort food, especially after a few drinks or a long day.
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For the cocktails, how does the inspiration from Sri Lanka railway stations come in?
Our cocktails are actually named after railway trains, not stations. We wanted to represent our cocktails with something that was iconic to Sri Lanka. And what better way to bring the guest on a journey across the country than on the iconic Sri Lankan trains.
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They each have a name of their own, and with it, different routes and “personalities” — similar to our cocktails, each with a different style and comprising different spices.
Furthermore, Kotuwa is the central station in Sri Lanka, and we felt it was very apt.
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If someone only has room for one dish from Kotuwa, what should it be?
Our crab curry. It’s authentically Sri Lankan, a recipe that’s passed down from my mother. We cook Sri Lankan mud crabs with cumin, cinnamon, fenugreek, coriander and a mix of other spices. The result is succulent crab in a dark, aromatic gravy.
It is hearty, spicy and comforting. Best eaten with your hands.
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On a different note, can you take us through the decor of Kotuwa? How is it specifically different from your other two establishments?
We wanted to create a warm and inviting space that incorporates the spirit and essence of Sri Lanka with a more modern and industrial look, while still showcasing elements of the Sri Lankan heritage. Not only does the decor play an important role in the dining experience, we also put in a lot of effort in our playlist as we believe that music contributes immensely to the vibe of the space.
Guests will be able to start off with some reggae, then some Bollywood disco and others.
For example, the grey brick wall and the arch to the kitchen is a representation of the subway tiles at Kotuwa station in Sri Lanka, along with the rattan furniture, and distressed and washed coloured wooden panels for a touch of heritage; the flamingo and foliage wallpaper is a nod to the tropical wildlife in Sri Lanka, while the industrial lights and Loh Lik Peng’s signature chandeliers, brings an edginess to the space.
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What’s next for you? Any exciting plans?
I think Kotuwa was one of the more exciting things for us in the recent months. Now, I would like to focus on tightening things up in all three restaurants and strengthening the business side of things.
Once you’re done hearing Chef Rishi introduce Kotuwa to you, click to book a reservation and click here to catch up with our February 2021 issue.
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