Anthony Vaccarello throws a party like no other: darkly romantic, with a sprinkle of 1980s disco glamour. The designer disrupted the season’s ready-to-wear with rhinestone embroideries (seen on tuxedo lapels, button-down shirts and striped polo shirts) and sheer organza, giving masculinity a tender kind of rebelliousness. The glitter show was Vaccarello’s tribute to Saint Laurent’s association with evening parties, reinventing a timeless wardrobe with a haute couture attitude that’s actually wearable.
While the punk movement of the 1960s-70s may be dead, its effects still carry on today. Vaccarello adopts its do-it-yourself aesthetic to create statement pieces out of Saint Laurent’s signature canvas Joe sneakers. The off-white version in stonewash canvas and cream suede is adorned with encrusted heart pins and a “Smoking Forever” graffiti tag, while the black version in soft, shiny leather is signed off with “1971 Bad Lieutenant”.