Now passing his ten year mark at the oldest Parisian fashion house in existence, the confidence is oozing from Lucas Ossendrijver’s latest for Lanvin. “Youth and freedom” is the central theme, and each look is a study in expression and experimentation. The collages of fabrics, proportions and textures are bold and striking: matte surfaces collide with high-shine finishes, horizontal stripes intersect with vertical ones, tailoring meets sportswear details (cue stitched or heat-bonded reflective stripes), and black and navy layers reveal rainbow stripes.
The ethnic touches that Lanvin has always favoured are also on full display, with hand-stitching details, raw edges, and all-over embroidered arrow motifs on homespun knits. With talismans securing wrists or dangling from belts with carabiners, the Spring/Summer 2017 collection is a nod to youth and the notions of rebellion, eclecticism and individuality. And for proof that Lanvin is still all about romance (as Ossendrijver himself declared after his runway show), the trousers of the opening looks have lines of love poems embroidered around the waist.