Independent multi-label concepts focusing on thrift and vintage pieces have sprung up in Singapore and Malaysia — the owners of three of such spaces lean in on how their initiatives have become more than just a haven for fashion lovers as they form new fashion communities.
Several youths in Singapore and Malaysia have devoted themselves to fashion. They have gone head over heels for clothes with an endless quest to search for pieces that stand out and to find unique ways to craft a style that is neither ubiquitous nor commonplace.
This desire for individuality and freedom has spurred interest in thrift shopping — a place many have turned to look for the rarest of pieces. In an era where modern retail is constantly in flux, some have turned their passion into a full-time career by opening physical spaces to host their interests.
FIFTH (pictured above) is a Malaysian thrift store with a grunge and eccentric style at Taman Paramount — an area which was once filled with Kopitiams (hawker centres) — are now hanging out spots for the “best dressed”. The people behind the rebranding of such a trendy location is none other than Gen Zs themselves.
Perhaps sharing one thing in common is their impact in birthing an underground fashion community in the outskirt part of the suburban city. What was once started by a group of five guys by chance has now become an important part of the culture when exploring the local fashion scenes, co-founder Jaden tells us more.
What are some misconceptions people have about thrifting and the community that you have built?
I’d say most people might take our customers as very young people, and that is somewhat true because during our open markets and events that we host, the place is mostly crowded with Gen Zs. But actually, when it comes to just a regular day in the store our customers are what you might not expect. We’ve had a 60 to 70- year old uncle regularly visiting every now and then, a mother with her two kids and some times even a big family on a shopping spree.
So we see young adults enjoy participating in open markets and social events, but sales mostly come from the older generation that regularly visits?
Yes, exactly.
Why do you think that’s so?
Social media have definitely made thrifting seem more of a “trend”, but that’s actually far from what it really is. Many people prefer shopping second-hand since it’s more sustainable and most often, they find more of their style at a thrift shop rather than mass markets that are heavily catered to young people. The nostalgia that comes with thrifting and buying vintage is also unmatched; you won’t get the same kind of feeling from a newly purchased shopping bag.
Speaking of which, many brands have switched to social media as one of their biggest marketing tools, deeming it one of the best to expand their market. Would you say FIFTH did the same in trying to find customers?
No, we don’t really use social media to find new customers or audiences. We use it more as a way to show who we are as a store and as a community. We just stay true to ourselves, and embrace and welcome all sorts of styles and identities — we think we’d find more customers that resonate with us with this.
I noticed stores in Taman Paramount all have different niche audiences — most stay heavily true in staying original — which makes the place close to heart for many people.
This area has always been more about the people than the businesses themselves. I think that’s why a fashion community can thrive in a place like this because it has a sense of familiarity and comfort instead of being just hubs of businesses and stores where everything seems forced for sale.
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If you’re asked to describe the style of c in 3 words or less, what would it be?
Adventurous, diverse and funky.
I think that sums it up quite well.
We love the uniqueness and the celebration of unconventional ideas of beauty. I know a lot of people are too scared to try things outside of their comfort zone, especially when it comes to dressing up. My advice is to give it one go, who knows if you might end up liking it. The worst that could happen is that you don’t like it, but you can always change your style till you find one that truly speaks to you.
I love your answer about exploring different ideas of beauty, I’d assume you’ll be into Avant Garde or deconstructed looks? Would you say your interest influences FIFTH’s style and which celebrity would you say describe the style of the store the most?
I guess so. We’re not interested in putting labels or style names on how we dress. I think that just feeds into the micro-trend culture a lot more, which we’re never a fan of in the first place. In our community, everyone dresses based on who they are and what they represent! If I had to choose several celebrities that resemble the style of our store, I’d go with G-Dragon, Steve Lacy and Sora Choi — only because they all have a very strong sense of individuality and who they are, which is what FIFTH is all about.
Thrift stores today seem to be very strong on the message of “being yourself” and I think more people need to embrace this idea, especially since the style of today’s young adults is heavily influenced by what’s trending.
Totally! We’ve always been clear with the message we want to send as a community, especially on the topic of sustainability. As a thrift store, we rely on reusing and recycling clothing rather than constantly producing new garments. This not only reduces the environmental impact of the fashion industry but also helps to conserve resources and reduce waste. When compared to retail stores, thrifting is much more ethical than buying from big brands that mass produce every few weeks.
The topic of “Sustainable Fashion” seems very new to Malaysians but seeing thrift stores being more popular in promoting sustainability is a big leap forward. Do you believe that change is something that has been anticipated?
I’ve been seeing many young local creatives making it so big at such a young age — from models, stylists and designers, the list goes on — and it gets better every time. Growing up, the idea of seeing Malaysians on the global fashion scene seems very far-fetched, but witnessing it all happen now seems like a dream. I do think the next generation can change fashion and I’m only anticipating their next moves.
What’s the next move for FIFTH?
We’re looking forward to opening more branches in the next few years, but we’re mostly focusing on keeping the community close and the store going at a steady pace. Don’t all good things come in due time? That’s what I’ve always believed in. There’s some talk among the team about possibly opening a creative agency — that’s something far ahead, but we’re very much considering it.
Photography Herbe Yap
Interview Asha Farisha
On-Set Styling Manfred Lu
Styling Assistant Liew Hui Ying
In Singapore, 23-year old Jermaine Ho runs PLOP Apparels — a Y2K-enamelled sanctuary featuring her label and a host of other small, independent labels. She now operates her business at Haji Lane — an area once known for its flurry of boutiques packed with local fashion, tattoo parlours and bars — where PLOP Apparels runs its cafe and retail space. An industrial interior greets guests in its small but adequate space, where the clothes can be experienced in an intimate setting.
Shall we start with an introduction to the store? The journey of how you started PLOP Apparels. By the way, it is PLOP Apparels with an emphasis on “Apparels”? I feel like I should clarify that.
Yes! But I prefer calling it just “PLOP”, to be honest; adding “Apparels” at the back sounds a tad bit lame. [Laughs] I didn’t think it was necessary, but I had it there just to make things sound a little bit more official. Let’s just call it PLOP from now.
PLOP was a label I started two years back. We began as an online store selling just thrifted clothing in the early days. I would source them from websites like eBay, curate them into seasonal offerings and ship them over here from practically every country you could think of. It really took off as a means to have a passive income, but the main reason is as simple as a love of fashion. I love clothes and I spent a lot of my time shopping, so I just thought, “hey, why don’t I make something out of it?” And the store eventually grew bigger, which led to a shift in direction. Instead of just being about sustainable sourcing of clothes with our curation of thrifted clothes, I decided to create my brand — which has really been the focus ever since. On top of that, we also operate as a multi-label space and a cafe.
So it was an online store that became a physical store?
Yes, but we’re not actually where things started with our attempt to create a physical space. PLOP’s first brick-and-mortar store was at a co-sharing space in Rochor before we eventually found a new home here (at Haji Lane). It’s slightly conceptual — we’re a part-cafe, part- clothing store. The first floor is a food and beverage establishment, while the second floor was transformed into a showroom. But in a few weeks, that won’t be the case anymore. We’re expanding the fashion aspect through the cafe in a revamp of the space.
Your parents must be very open-minded then.
They weren’t really supportive when I first started. In fact, they urged me to find a full-time job when I first graduated from school. I understood their concerns of course — because starting a business at a young age can be quite terrifying, especially knowing financially that can be extremely unstable and a salaried income will always seem like the better option.
Eventually, they really saw my passion for it, and after two years of proving to myself and them that I could make something out of this, they realised that it’s not something I chose half-heartedly. It didn’t take too long. They started to notice how serious I was about it when the orders came in and maybe those endless hours packing orders did show them something.
I guess looking at the store in-person — with the massive space you’ve curated and how it’s turned out to be now — must’ve changed their minds.
Yeah, but they still don’t get the fashion. [Laughs] It took them a while to not think they were weird or too young.
Were there any references when you first started your label?
I love Hyein Seo. We’re working towards that same level of deconstruction and sophistication for the new collection.
It’s funny that you mentioned her because as I’m sitting here, it feels like a cafe in Seoul. I think it’s the cafe and store hybrid that really hits it.
Yeah! And I’m also inspired by the retail spaces you’d see in Thailand and Vietnam, which have a thriving local fashion scene. Their take on the concrete, bare yet tranquil interior design set within an old building really spoke to me. It’s really conceptual and brings a whole new element to the space. I thought it would make sense to bring that to Singapore as well. So a lot of the metal and concrete opposites were borrowed from them.
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I’ve also noticed a rise in the indie multi-label store concepts in Singapore, but not to the point where I would describe this movement as a trend because it’s not a new occurrence for those cities we’ve mentioned.
It’s totally not. They’ve done it for a while now, and we’re quite late to it.
It’s fairly new here.
It’s definitely harder to find them here in Singapore. Selling thrifted clothes is getting tougher because it’s been getting so saturated amongst something that might be curated and labelled as vintage or things that you may find from a wholesale supplier that comes in abundance but lacks the desire or solution for those looking for something truly unique. Singapore has no in-between, unlike our neighbouring countries such as Malaysia.
So the way it works for indie labels is completely different too. There’s a lot of hard work put into it, right down to its curation and the extra hours to make them unique and sellable. We comb through thousands of options to make just a few that makes sense for the store — That’s the labour. Then you have to think about rent, which is brutal in Singapore. It’s all of these things combined that make such endeavours rare because everyone avoids them.
Interestingly, you spoke about how thrifted and vintage clothes are presented and sold in Singapore. I think there’s a rise in awareness towards eliminating “new” items in one’s wardrobe, Would you say being sustainable is your main goal with your store?
It’s a bit arrogant to claim it, but yes, I’d love to work towards being sustainable. It has always been the goal from the beginning and I think it’s a movement I’d love to see other brands have in mind.
Would you say money is a big issue operating a store like this?
Of course, especially being in Haji Lane. It’s like a gamble with the rent and sales. Now that I’m also taking over the cafe — which used to be co-owned — it’s more responsibility. I have to work harder. There will always be that risk because at the end of the day, it’s just clothes. I can’t possibly rely on that. That’s why we have the cafe to hopefully bring in more people.
In that regard, why Haji Lane?
I’ve always liked Haji Lane, even when I was younger. I think it’s truly a vibrant place. When I first came to Haji Lane, it wasn’t like this. In fact, it was filled mainly with just boutique shops. We even bought our pieces from them when we first started before the pandemic. There’s also a lot of traffic from tourists. By moving to a more rural area — such as Sim Lim Square — I would think you’d see less of that. I even considered a cheaper place when circumstances changed during the last six months, but I couldn’t let those interactions with my customers go.
Have they been your main support?
Of course! My peers and customers have given me enough support, and I think that’s very important in Singapore where we don’t have a market that values local brands. I even became friends with some of my customers and even formed a community with them.
Speaking of communities, many multi-label stores function as spaces for fashion lovers to come together. Do you think it’s important to foster them?
For sure, I really don’t want to be a brand where people buy and just go, and that’s that. I want to hear feedback and hear about the customer experience. It’s grown to be more like building a space — this eagerness to be part of something, even more so in Singapore when there’s very little of this.
Is there a meaning behind the name PLOP?
To be frank, it was named after my bunny. But I thought, “I can’t share this with others, it’s quite lame.” So I eventually gave it a new meaning. Do you know the sounds water droplets make? The way it makes a “plop” sound? I see these small indie brands as those droplets which eventually form a puddle when they all come together to make something.
That’s a very good answer. So what’s the next move?
I’m excited for the new revamp to the space that will take place in just a few weeks from now; for the new collection that I’ve put my heart in. In the future, I’d love to house even more brands and I hope this grows into something more successful to truly provide for the new community that would appreciate stuff like this.
Photography Jaya Khidir
Interview & On-Set Styling Manfred Lu
Photography Assistant Ivan Iskandar
What fun is a world where everyone dresses the same? Modern retail has reconstructed the way society perceives fashion. Instead of dressing to express oneself, dressing has become a way to market onself successfully. Amidst trends changing as fast as they came, local thrift stores in Malaysia have found their way to stay authentic.
One such instance lies with a store that started spontaneously by a series of coincidences and later found success among Gen Zs who are just rooting for originality. Traditionally, people know thrift stores as a place selling pre-loved items, but Del’cs has successfully turned them into local fashion hubs. Thrifting is no longer a hobby, It has become a lifestyle.
I’ve heard a lot of talk about Taman Paramount and every time I do, it’s like a mystery who started all of this. So when I heard that I have a chance to get the founder of Del’cs for this feature, I knew I have to do it to unveil my curiosity.
Hayley: [Laughs] We love keeping a low profile. You can say we prefer to work backstage while our models are at the front.
Si Kai: Agreed, most people even assumed we’re fashion majors or somehow worked in fashion previously to be able to build a fashion community, but the truth is we’re both from completely different fields. Hayley is planning on majoring in Social Sciences for a Degree while I’m doing one in Finance.
Was opening a thrift store a plan both of you had all along?
H: Nope, not at all! My mom owns several store lots in and around Taman Paramount, but back then the place was full of kopitiams, and it wasn’t as known for the significance that it holds today. I thought this area could be more lively if there were more teenagers and several boutiques where people could come, shop and chill with their friends. Around that time, the trend with thrifting culture on TikTok started booming; people were also spending a lot of money on vintage and up-cycled items on apps like Depop and Vinted. I pitched the idea to my mom and she told me she has no time for more business, but if I’m interested, maybe I myself can start one. That definitely shocked me because I was 16 at that time. The idea of opening my own business — let alone a thrift store — is not something I’d imagine.
SK: Yeah, the opening of Del’cs was definitely something spontaneous and out of the blue. Hayley planned everything in a short period and launched it immediately with no background in business, accounting or finance. Many people don’t know that Hayley and I were initially high school friends who barely spoke to each other. A week after the launch and seeing everyone visiting her store, I made a brave decision — I’d say for another 16-year-old kid — to approach her and confidently ask, “Who’s helping you with the finance of the store? I might know a thing or two about business. Maybe we can work together!” The only knowledge I had was from my accounting class in high school.
As your business grew with time, many have noticed the fashion community you have built within the area of your store in Taman Paramount. Since you’ve witnessed it all, how would you define a fashion community?
SK: We simply view it as a space where everyone is comfortable enough to explore their style and be able to express it as well. In a place like Malaysia — which we would say is quite conservative — having a community where you can truly explore and express how you want is very important, and that’s what we’ve been trying to do with our store.
What about Del’cs’ place in this picture then?
SK: Del’cs hosts fashion markets every few months where we invite vendors of small businesses to showcase their brands and those times are always the best time to join the community. Many visit the market in the most extravagant style; they treat the markets more like festivals and everyone shows up with their best looks. Interacting with people within the community always feels a bit surreal to us. Some even built friendships by finding people that share the same niche of style.
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Sounds like so much fun! I do think Malaysia is full of expressive artists but finding a space where they all share as hubs is very limited.
H: Yes, and I think we’ve found one for fashion! Our purpose with Del’cs market has always been to create a space for fashion where people are brave enough to experiment — that’s why it frustrates us sometimes when we see mass hate online of the way “Taman Paramount Kids” dress up. A community we’ve created for people to express themselves has become the centre of online jokes, which intimidates many interested in trying.
SK: As for our favourite thing about the community, I’d say I love how they’ve found friendships through the community we’ve built. What I’ve noticed is that our customers are also very loyal — every event and market we’ve launched is filled with the same familiar faces. It always feels as if I know these people, and they come back again every now and then.
H: We’re just happy that we’ve succeeded in building the type of community filled with expressive and creative people. Every time we’re done with events, we always try to post the outfits of the customers that visited that week, just to show others how they can also be brave and try out different ways of styling without being intimidated or stared at because it’s quite a “normal” way of dressing up at Taman Paramount.
I also noticed how popular Del’cs are among Gen Zs. What is the most important when building a brand catering to the younger generation in 2023?
SK: We try our best, but we also are Gen Zs ourselves. So I would say that we resonate a lot with our audience because they watch and like what we also watch and like. Social media is the best tool, but it’s as complicated as ever. There are new trends every few weeks, maybe even every few days.
H: Oh, also Tiktok Audios and memes are one of the best ways! If you were to explain what that is to your boss that’s stuck in the 1960s, they’d probably send you back home, but that’s exactly what drives traffic to our profile. We had our marketing intern, Maya Isabella do a TikTok with trending audio and a caption that writes, “My boss told me to make this event viral. I have 3 days to help me”, and we can say that the event was a success, with the video gaining over 70,000 views.
SK: Gen Z humour is definitely hard to understand, but if we can profit from it, we’ll open an urban dictionary and start learning.
Let’s move on to the future. What do you think the fashion scene in Malaysia will look like in a few decades?
H: Personally, I really hope Gen Zs would stay in the country instead of migrating elsewhere because I see a trend among young people wanting to leave Malaysia because fashion in Malaysia is “dead”, which is far from the truth. We are the future generations that can change the fashion industry, grow and expand it to maybe a wider market. In the next few years, if this generation is actually passionate, ambitious and willing to change the industry, the future of the fashion scene in Kuala Lumpur will be as bright as ever. Especially seeing first- hand how many creative and expressive young adults this country has birthed from the millennial generation alone.
SK: As of the future, we’re also looking to expand and grow Del’cs further. We’re working on our own household collection by Del’cs that will launch on the 3rd of February. Since Del’cs itself is a thrift store, we’re pretty serious about sustainability and having ethical production of our clothes. We’ve found a local manufacturer and will document the entire production process for our buyers to see. With many more collaborations and launches from Del’cs moving forward, we’d say this is only the beginning.
Photography Herbe Yap
Interview Asha Farisha
On-Set Styling Liew Hui Ying
Once you’re done with this story on newly formed fashion communities, click here to catch up with our February 2023 issue.
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