Exclusive: Samuel Ross, Founder of A-Cold-Wall*, Discusses His Latest Creation, the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross - Men's Folio
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Exclusive: Samuel Ross, Founder of A-Cold-Wall*, Discusses His Latest Creation, the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross

  • By Asaph Low

Exclusive: Samuel Ross, Founder of A-Cold-Wall*, Discusses His Latest Creation With HublotArt has been a longstanding cornerstone of Hublot since its “Hublot Loves Art” initiative was launched more than a decade ago. What was initially conceptualised as a testbed for collaborations with artists and designers has since spawned into a life of its own. Unique creations with individuals including the likes of Maxime Plescia-Buchi, Richard Orlinski and Takashi Murakami sparked frenzies whenever they were released and their ranks are now joined by multi-hyphenate Samuel Ross and his first-ever creation with Hublot, the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross.

At first glance, the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross is unlike any timepiece Hublot has ever created — a radical, provocative and forward-thinking wearable sculpture. Materials come together to demonstrate Hublot’s “Art of Fusion” philosophy while the choice of colours and patterning is a propensity of Ross’ colour theory and love for stark geometry. The main structure of the watch is titanium while rubber is chosen for the lateral bumpers and watch straps. Together, these materials check important criteria often coined in design such as lightweight, ergonomy and durability.

Exclusive: Samuel Ross, Founder of A-Cold-Wall*, Discusses His Latest Creation With HublotThe Big Bang’s hexagonal DNA is reinterpreted as a honeycomb pattern as seen on the case, strap inserts and dial. Its porous guise offers exceptional lightness and airiness and on the dial, it is a departure from traditional skeletonised watches as the tourbillon and inner works of the HUB6035 Manufacture movement hum for all to see. Given only 50 examples of the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross will be created, there is no doubt fans of the brand will be clamouring for one.

Multi-disciplinary artist, filmmaker, and fashion designer Samuel Ross, better known for starting A-Cold-Wall*, was the winner of the Hublot Design Prize in 2019. The award is the other facet of “Hublot Loves Art”, conceptualised by Jean-Claude Biver and Pierre Keller in 2015 as a springboard for up-and-coming designers to gain notoriety and visibility. Ross was later unveiled as an ambassador of Hublot in 2020 and is the youngest artist Hublot has ever worked with to date.

Men’s Folio had the pleasure of interviewing Samuel Ross as part of this highly anticipated launch.

Exclusive: Samuel Ross, Founder of A-Cold-Wall*, Discusses His Latest Creation With HublotWith the launch of the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross, you are the youngest artist Hublot has worked with according to Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe. How do you feel seeing the watch materialise in reality?
It’s been a collaborative process aligned from the very beginning founded on a layer of trust in both engineering expertise and sensibilities. Ricardo and I have developed a healthy sparring dynamic that ensures we are pushing our individual qualities to affect the watch’s development and articulation is now visible.

What is your favourite design feature about the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross?
Its lack of weight — this brings an unassumed comfort that counters the gravitas offered through the scale of the watch. It is, of course, a wearable sculpture. 

There’s also how we have treated titanium throughout the watch. Four treatments are integrated, ranging from satin polish to brushed finishings resulting in depth and mid-tones formed through such processes.

Exclusive: Samuel Ross, Founder of A-Cold-Wall*, Discusses His Latest Creation With HublotThe Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross is largely based on the REFORM sculpture. What were your other sources of inspiration and how has your past experiences informed the final design of the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross?
REFORM offers a window into the aesthetic and material language I intend to build upon and expand throughout the Hublot universe. It signifies a view on how I see the future of Hublot increasing its focus across material development and through leadership within the watch disruption space.

Though this language is clearly present within my first watch development with Hublot, it’s not a direct reshaping from sculpture to watch but more of a sensibility that is shared, offering cohesion across the Hublot and Samuel Ross universe. 

What is the significance of colour in your works as seen in Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross and your works at A-COLD-WALL*?
Colour pulls emotion from a viewer. It is discerning in its intent — to stir, to pull. When used correctly, it’s an equaliser demanding a response. Colour theory can be willed to shape an object, space, or mood. It can be a communicative tool, or it can simply be joyous.

Your relationship with Hublot began in 2019 during the Hublot Design Prize. What about the Hublot team impressed you the most throughout this journey you’ve had with them so far?
Hublot gets ‘it’ with material expertise. True engineering and innovation meeting Swiss craft and expertise.

It’s less impressive but more of deep respect for the meshing of craft and technology. I believe good design is built on mediating these two tenets.

Having worked with Hublot, do you see strong parallels between horology and the domains of fashion and design?
Not really, It’s important to not mesh all craft types into a gelatinous, homogenised blob of merchandise. Both sit under the remit of design right? Exceptional product categories that service an end-user. Though the interest in working across a multitude of fields is the different value propositions and neuroplasticity offered through problem-solving. 

It is gratifying to find cohesion in how different disciplines can become organised and form languages, though I’m constantly in search of ‘what’s next?’ when it comes to developing expressive products.

“Art of Fusion” is one of the guiding principles for Hublot. What is your interpretation of “Art of Fusion” as a creative director?
It is the merging of artistry and expression, paired with innovation and engineering.

Just as “Art of Fusion” stemmed from Hublot’s visionary chairman, Jean-Claude Biver and is driven forward by Ricardo Guadalupe. How do you plan to continue the legacy of your mentor, the late Virgil Abloh?
“EACH ONE TEACH ONE”

This exclusive story first appeared in the Men’s Folio August 2022 issue, click here to catch up the rest of it!