Call them icons if you like, these iconic timepieces are the distinct faces of these watchmakers.
Pictured Above: Cartier Santos-Dumont De Cartier
Widely regarded as the pioneer of pilot watches, the Cartier Santos was born in 1904 as a tool watch for Brazilian aviator and friend ofLouis Cartier, Alberto Santos-Dumont. Instead of taking a utilitarian design language, it was guided by the three main principles — namely elegance, simplicity, and practicality — of Santos-Dumont. Since then, it has become one of the most iconic timepieces in the world of watchmaking, with the Cartier Santos-Dumont collection later created as a tribute to the historic model.
A tonal execution marks this year’s release as the rose gold case is matched with a smooth beige lacquer bezel. The sophistication extends to the dial as concentric patterning adds subtle visual interest, and the sapphire cabochon crown is an inimitable signature of Cartier. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide, Cartier’s manual winding calibre 430 MC Manufacture movement maintains a svelte profile for the watch.
A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1
First introduced in 1994, the Lange 1 is widely regarded as the symbol of Saxon watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne. It was tasked with the unenviable task of revitalising the German manufacture following its revival but aced it emphatically as it gained acclaim amongst watch collectors and experts. Its asymmetrical dial layout is a design masterstroke — the off-centre time display; patented outsized double date aperture and AUF/AB power reserve indicator — have made the Lange 1 instantly recognisable.
Almost three decades on, the design remains virtually unchanged as one of the most iconic timepieces even with the introduction of this year’s Grand Lange 1. Dimensions are subtly tweaked as the 41mm diameter and 8.2mm thickness offers a more elegant proportion from the existing 38.5mm diameter and9.8mm thickness. Recessed subsidiary dials with concentric lines and flat appliques are contrasted with gently bevelled chamfers to provide balanced transitions from the subsidiary dials to the granularly textured main dial. This allows high-contrast highlighting of the Roman numerals, lozenge-shaped markers in pink gold and hands.
Two versions of the A.Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 are created — in either 18k pink or 18k white gold with a solid silver grey dial.
Panerai Submersible Quaranta Quattro PAM01226
Given its Submersible namesake, the Panerai Submersible Quaranta Quattro PAM01226 features all the essential hallmarks of Panerai’s dive collection. The patented crown-protecting device aka one of the most iconic timepieces needs no further introduction as it is de rigueur in Panerai watches. Other specifications include a 300m water-resistance rating and unidirectional rotating bezel with metallic appliques filled with white Super-Lumi Nova.
One juicy piece of news is the introduction of an improved date window that will be implemented throughout the Submersible collection for heightened legibility.Humming within the Submersible Quaranta Quattro is Panerai’s trusted P.900 calibre that features a seconds sub-dial at nine o’clock and supplies a whopping three-day power reserve. All pieces are accompanied by a rubber and fabric strap with a set of tools to allow interchangeability.
Given Panerai’s commitment to preserving the environment with its Ecologico framework, the rubber and fabric straps will comprise 30% and 68% recycled materials respectively.
Omega Speedmaster 57 Chronograph Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 40.5MM
Designed for the asphalt but destined for the moon, the Omega Speed master Moonwatch Professional is one of the most iconic designs of watchmaking since its triumphant feats to space and the moon. While that has taken all the plaudits, we should turn our attention to the latest Omega Speedmaster ‘57 Co-Axial MasterChronometer Chronograph 40.5mm, a direct descendant of the legendary Omega Speedmaster CK2915-1 regardedas the genesis of the Speedmaster.
The distinct “BroadArrow” hour hand and tachymeter inscribed steel bezel form the cornerstone of the Speedmaster ‘57 design that distinguishes itself from its counterparts. A sandwich dial and patina Super Luminova plots lend a touch of vintage appeal to the heritage-rich watch.
Omega’s Co-AxialMaster Chronometer Calibre 9906 is a nod to the CK2915-1’s manual winding nature while ensuring a slimmer profile for the wrist. The specifications do not end there as the next generation movement features a Co-AxialEscapement and silicon “Si14” balance spring that offers supreme chronometric performance and resistance to external influences, certified by METAS (The FederalInstitute of Metrology).
Once you’re done with this story about iconic timepieces, click here to catch up with our August 2022 issue!
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