Geneva is once again the epicentre of horology as Watches & Wonders 2025 unfolds and brings the industry’s finest together for a week of innovation, craftsmanship, and heritage. With brands unveiling their latest creations — ranging from groundbreaking complications to refined reinterpretations of icons — the fair continues to set the tone for the year in watchmaking. From technical marvels to artistic flourishes, each day offers something new to discover, making this edition one to watch. Here are today’s highlights from IWC, TAG Heuer, Montblanc, Panerai and Bell & Ross.
IWC
IWC takes shock protection to the stratosphere with the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL. The move comes after the manufacture unveiled the Toto Wolff edition earlier this year, albeit with one major change — a skeletonised dial with a flying tourbillon. This marks the first time that IWC uses its patented SPRIN-g PROTECT® shock absorber system to protect a tourbillon against shocks. Given the inherent mass of the IWC-manufactured 82915 movement, it was skeletonised for better shock absorption optimisation and offers a view of the bulk metallic glass (BMG) shock absorber spring inside. Given the technicalities of the watch, it was crafted from the equally technical Ceratanium case that combines the best worlds of ceramic and titanium.
TAG Heuer
Now that it is “lights out and away we go” for TAG Heuer, the brand races ahead with its latest fleet of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph. The move follows up on the Kith edition from last year but is updated with TAG Heuer’s innovative Solargraph TH50-00 calibre introduced to the TAG Heuer Formula 1 family for the first time ever. Drawing from light from the sun or artificial sources, the movement converts light into energy that powers the watch. A two-minute exposure to the sun charges the battery for a day’s worth of autonomy, while a maximum charge gives 40 days of power reserve. Nine models are unveiled as part of this collection in various colours that recall the livery of the racing teams. While the original design from 1986 was 35mm in diameter, this edition has been sized up to 38mm. The cases are crafted from stainless steel with either brushed finishing or PVD coating and are paired with the model’s signature bezel, now crafted from TH-Polylight.
Montblanc
Montblanc pays tribute to legendary alpinist Reinhold Messner’s ascent of Mount Vinson, Antarctica’s highest peak, with the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition. The watch is crafted from a 43.5mm titanium case inspired by Antarctica’s landscape and features a brand-new composite middle case crafted from quartz fibres, aluminised basalt fibres, CaCO3, and light blue resin. Given that oxygen is one of the watch components biggest enemies, Montblanc’s Zero Oxygen technology creates a void in the watch interior to prevent oxidation. The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Mount Vinson Limited Edition is powered by the Calibre MB 29.25 with Worldtime complication indicated by the rotating northern and southern hemisphere globes. A 3D laser colour engraving of Mount Vinson Mountain is presented on the case back for the 986 limited edition watch, as a tribute to Messner’s heroic efforts in 1986.
Panerai
Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee has upgraded its Luminor Marina this year with several technical features to elevate the iconic timepiece’s attributes. While the watch’s signature construction and appearance remain, many of the improvements are within the new Panerai Luminor Marina PAM03312. A new P.980 calibre, which is visible through the open sapphire case-back, boasts a 3-day power reserve, a traversing balance bridge, and a stop-second function for precise time-setting. The new calibre profile has allowed Panerai to tweak the watch’s case construction slightly, slimming it by 12% while water resistance is bumped up to 500m. Given that legibility is one of Panerai’s core philosophies, nighttime luminosity is further enhanced by the all-new and brighter X2 Super-LumiNova. For the first time ever, the new Luminor Marina also features the Panerai PAM click release system which enables quick and easy strap changes.
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross celebrates 20 years of the BR-03 with the BR-03 Skeleton Lum Ceramic which is accompanied by its “20 YEARS BOLD” campaign. Instead of applying traditional skeletonisation techniques, Bell & Ross reworked the bridges of the new BR-CAL.328 with luminescent SLN C3 edges and placed them on a translucent smoked plate that tints the movement, giving the watch dial a different dimension. The 250-piece limited edition watch is housed in a microblasted black ceramic case that ties in nicely with the futuristic vibe of the watch.
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our April 2025 issue.