As we grow accustom to the shift from office to work-from-home culture, will this be downfall of conventional formal wear?
We have heard whispers of an impending economic crash — the elusive “free market boogieman” that rears its head once every decade — since the end of 2022. The fashion industry and fashion consumers alike are listening, and perhaps the emerging popularity of “quiet luxury” is simply a consequence of the divine providence of penny-pinching prudence. Quiet luxury has spotlighted the likes of The Row, Jil Sander, Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli. Minimalist appeal and exquisite simplicity aside, these labels share a common narrative — each providing understated elegance and ease of movement with relaxed silhouettes and proportions.
The shifts in fashion trends mirror the times we live in. At the height of 2020’s social distancing, the trend at the time was spaceenveloping, almost absurdist pieces that provided distance to the wearer from their surroundings. Outrageous hats, facial coverings, largerthan- life ensembles and gloves from the structured sleeves at Moschino’s Spring ’20 collection to the closing looks at Louis Vuitton’s Fall/ Winter ’22 collection alongside avant-grade showcases from Craig Green and Comme des Garçons.
2023 sees the start of a new era — an unfettered movement departing from years of cocooned clothing, forgoing bigger silhouettes and oversized pieces for looser silhouettes and less restrictive tailoring. A trend that has been affected by the shift in corporate culture. We live in a generation where teenagers and twenty-somethings are making their fortune on the internet and social media. A generation that embraces “quiet quitting” with the younger population feeling the lack of a need to be tied to an office cubicle opting instead to work remotely or choosing freelance jobs with a flexible working schedule.
The return of denim as workwear in and out of the office is a not-so-subtle rebellion against Wall Street and the conventional notions of formal wear. Regardless if there is a coincidence between the resurgence of denim and an impending market crash, people are openly questioning economic inequality and the influence money has on politics. Thom Browne has perhaps the most subversive take on corporate office attire. Browne highlights a humorous take on a double-breasted coat, swapping tailored trousers for skirt and shorts. On the other hand, Oliver Rousteing delivers sculptured shapes paired with unrestrictive, flared trousers at Balmain in line with their “1970s rock and roll glam” aesthetic.
Open borders and the revival of international travel call for the rise of travel-essential pieces. Louis Vuitton delivered activewear and sportswear ready for any unpredictable terrain — from deserts to jungles. Lightweight, waterproof outerwear protects the wearer from the elements, while technical fabrics merge high fashion with high functionality. From Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter Pre-Collection to Dior Men’s Fall ’23 beachwear capsule, motifs and prints reflect the dynamism of nature — exuding escapism and a yearning for travel. When it comes to voyage-ready bags, Louis Vuitton’s Keepall 50, 35 and 25, Mini Soft Trunk and Montsouris backpack are featured in an underwater-effect monogram dubbed the “Aqua Garde” motif.
While the yearning for summer wanderlust may be born from the opposition of “stay-at-home” orders during the pandemic, the landscape of how we dress for the beach to the boardroom has undoubtedly changed. With that, perhaps we can amend the standfirst from “death of the conventional formal wear” to the “new era of ‘relaxed’ corporate dressing”.
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