That bittersweet feeling that comes as things come to an end might signal the need for closure; but in Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2024 capsule, it commands a suggestion to open the doors for greater things.
Conceived as a final chapter by the Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme before Pharrell Williams’ takeover as the house’s succeeding creative director, Fall 2024 — a collection unbeknownst in its arrival — sets itself as an opportunity where one may appreciate the late-Virgil Abloh’s ethos for a final time.
While Abloh’s approach of levity is still continued in Williams’ new reign — as seen in his SS24 debut — the fall capsule acts an intermediary, bridge and a code-switch. There is a juggling of formal and casual codes, as new work-to-play uniforms are proposed. How is this balance struck, though? The Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme has selected a direction of a day-to-day refinement, and an infusion of playfulness in more formal constructs. Suits see fil-coupé treatments while trousers are exposed to a manipulation in volume; and bags are crafted in the make of Maxi Epi leather, before getting softened, distorted, and shrunk to nano-proportions.
Yet, the capsule does not get carried away by these phantasms. Yes, the Homme team has explored outside the archetypal bounds of standard menswear, but the capsule is still grounded and tempered by the overarching Louis Vuitton brand of dependability and assurance. Where there is play, the team balances it with a formality of work. Traditional tropes still persist — as grained leather and monogram canvas make up the storied silhouettes of Keepalls and Pochettes; and the Discovery derbies and Pacific slip-ons still materialise in the house’s classic Damier motif.
All clothing & accessories Louis Vuitton
Photography Brent Chua
The Louis Vuitton Fall capsule is available in stores now. Once you’re done with this story, click here to catch up with our September 2023 issue.
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