An umbrella made of wool. Though not on the handles nor ribs, but on the fabric of the folding canopy (yes, the part that is meant to shield you from the rain). It’s also highly unsuspecting: the familiar architecture will fool you not just from a distance but even as you’re holding on to it. Yet, it’s the perfect example of what Loro Piana is capable of — simple, yet highly excessive indulgences in an everyday essential that most would normally overlook. And it was one of the highlights of the upcoming collections presented by the Italian maison during Milan Fashion Week.
Why wool? Loro Piana has developed a material called Storm System®, a patented merino wool that is highly water resistant. It is also capable of repelling dust, dirt and any possible stains. Thus, having it on an umbrella — a tool that we often toss aside at the foot of our homes and could care less about its integrity — is a showcase of the maison’s confidence in its products and an exemplar of luxury attributes that is missing amongst the top names of today.
Likewise, Loro Piana FW25 menswear collection carries the same purposeful methodology. Clothes, though they can enhance the appearance and attitude of the wearer, should also be designed in the highest quality possible, and work for any activity — even those that take place in the outdoors.
And the outdoor forms the collection, once again. However, the maison has chosen to pinpoint a moment in its heritage that emphasised an expansion in innovation, where they once created products for clients who needed practical attire for external activities such as horse-riding, to guide the new season.
The result is clothes where its materials are Spring-like with soft, breathable fabrics that fall weightlessly on the body despite being designed for intolerable cold weather conditions. As with every equestrian need, mobility is essential. Thus, it makes sense of the desire to create clothes that not only shield you from the cold but feel free, unfussy and needlessly relaxed when it’s worn. And that pragmatism is emphasised in the silhouettes too, with the Spagna jacket now available in a short cape, and loose tailored trousers designed to be tucked into boots.
Other pieces in the Loro Piana FW25 collection are highly technical, despite their formal, tailored fronts, meant to be worn in actual races. The Maremma Jacket, now in cotton cashmere, makes a comeback in the new collection after a few seasons. And in the spirit of the sport, quilted hunting jackets and parkas were also presented. Even the evening wear, inspired by night at the opera, has a certain flexibility in its form that makes it not only easy to wear straight from the fields but for a quick dance. Now, that’s luxury.
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our February 2025 issue.