Godfather of streetwear Nigo reasserts Dadcore for FW23 with Kenzo Pace.
All of today’s -cores are fathered by Dadcore. From the jorts movement or the soccer jerseys of Blokecore, the revival of what would have previously been considered dated can be traced back to an uncle’s closet. In part due to the desirability of comfort over stylistic appeal, the movement was momentous in its marriage of irony, utilitarianism and its look toward the past.
The Dadcore trend reminds of a funny, oafish uncle: a little loud, a little awkward and yet, always there. While the late 2010s marked a time where Dadcore grew legitimacy; patterned polo shirts, funky fanny packs and the endearing Dad sneaker snuck its way to an in vogue status, society was quick to have a prodigal son moment. The fad was simply just forgotten, in favour of the next. But when the Godfather of streetwear releases a new sneaker as part of his work at a prominent label, it is not an order to be taken lightly. Dadcore is back and bigger than ever, or so Nigo says.
As part of his artistic directorial lead at Kenzo, the Japanese designer has come to imbue his signature sensibilities of street — now redefining arguably the largest moving part of the culture, the sneaker. Nigo’s designs are intentional: his first, the Internet-breaking Kenzo-Dome, was skate-functional, and the sequel, practical enough to pace around in.
Incidental is the Kenzo Pace, a sneaker crafted with the authenticity of running gear and the technical resilience of polyurethane and mesh. Long distance capabilities and endurance-fitted foamsoles render a kitschy functionality in design. Released alongside a campaign that spotlights a nostalgic vision of 90s Osaka (a recollection, perhaps, of Nigo’s childhood), the shoe, shrewdly, fits.
The movement embodied functional, practical essentials in drastic volumes. Waist bags were in, for comfortable utility, sneakers were made chunky, and an overabundance of outlandish colours flooded collections. And Kenzo emulates this vision to a T — the Pace sneaker is met with fabrication in brights and even reflective metallics circa the early 90s. And in place of the brand’s loud tiger motif, an allusion of tiger stripes and a simple K sits square in the centre of the body.
This is not the end, though, promises Kenzo. For the house of Kenzo, Nigo will return with a third sneaker design. Given that he’s already ventured into polished skate and banal Dadcore athleticism, the third variation raises hopes for what’s to be expected from the designer.
The Kenzo Pace is available for purchase now online and in Kenzo stores worldwide. Once you’re done with this story, click here to catch up with our September 2023 issue.
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