After the hubbub of Nigo’s participation in the Louis Vuitton FW25 menswear collection, the world sat with anticipation to see what other concepts the Kenzo creative director might have in store for his own label. And while Louis Vuitton’s showing was well-received, this arguably raised the stakes for the Japan-hailing designer for a revolutionary delivery of the label’s newest arrivals — as if showing twice within a fashion calendar week wasn’t already an achievement enough. And so on a Friday evening, the Palais de Chaillot took on the glow of the commanding Eiffel Tower; and Nigo unveiled yet another chapter of the house’s Japan-to-France narrative for the season. It’s not revolutionary, but it’s still a promising ode to the ones that came before.

Kenzo has historically always intertwined Japanese tenets of design into its collections, but as of late, these traditional motifs have become stronger and simultaneously more commercial; a trait brought on by the designer’s lasting legacy in streetwear. After all, his work at streetwear labels like Bape — where graphics are louder, cuts are more informal, and design is kept largely within its codes of camouflage and shark-motif hoodies that zip all the way up — reminds of just how modern-minded the designer can be. All this to say, Nigo wields a background in urban design; but lacks an association with polish and refinement as required by a heritage house of Kenzo.

But for FW25, Kenzo turns its back on prior seasons’ worth of graphically perky expressions of its Paris-to-Japan heritage. Nigo instead chooses to look forward, with a collection that is as-exuberant but feels much more mature. A seasonal acclimatisation of sorts, if you will. Outside of fashion, winter seasons have always been gloomier in nature, where the cold might advise one to dress more practically, even if that means compromising on the vitality that comes with a summer’s day. But the Kenzo atelier and he do their best to maintain that Japanese spirit of optimism. By honouring the house’s codes of vibrant colour-blocking, sprawling doodle prints and of course, the house’s shuttle between Paris and Japan, Kenzo FW25 is birthed. A straightforward hero print depicts the two wonders of each country — the Eiffel Tower and Mount Fuji — through aeroplane window panes etched out on statement shirts of the season. And shutting down any prior discourse on his crafting capabilities, Nigo saw to the impeccable quality of each look, and the season’s precision shone through in Kenzo’s recurring Japanese Kimono suiting and detailed twill fabrications. The result is tastefully mature but still evergreen. All of this to show Nigo’s wielding of a much-needed restraint, especially when the label’s subject matter is constantly communicated in such a straightforward fashion.

The transatlantic connection is still questioned for its relevance, but perhaps the Japanese designer would be best qualified to answer. With a New York-hailing Futura collaboration in tow this season, Nigo forgoes criticism of the international dialogue and instead clamps down on the spirit of global connections. But then again, this is what is needed from a creative director — a fortitude that keeps the house steered in their vision, even when skies may seem overcast.

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