From Haute Joaillerie to Haute Horlogerie and leather goods to fine accessories, the iconic Bvlgari Serpenti coils around Bvlgari’s universe. Its symbiotic relationship with Bvlgari runs deep and extends beyond caricature and the decorative use of its head or body — it is unfathomable that the snake cemented its presence 75 years ago, just past the halfway point of Bvlgari’s 139 years of history.
Born in the Eternal City of Rome one fateful day in 1948, Bvlgari celebrates the infinite tale of the Serpenti. The Serpenti became the emblem of the jeweller’s modernity and perpetual creativity, represented by ouroboros — the symbol of a snake biting its tail to form an infinite circle without beginning or end. Its perpetuity stems from Greek and Roman mythology, as the snake’s ecdysis was believed to possess regenerative powers.
“For 75 years, Bvlgari has shown its audacious creativity, ingenious craftsmanship and modern spirit through its emblematic Serpenti creations inspired by the jewels of Cleopatra, in a Rome of more than 2000 years ago. They convey endless tales, artistry and empowerment. It expanded the boundaries of jewellery, reflecting the spirit of confident women and entering the world of art through exciting creative collaborations. It was and is the ultimate Bvlgari icon of endless metamorphosis,” says Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of the Bvlgari Group.
The first instances of the Serpenti recorded were as jewellery watches wrapped around the wrist. A stylised take on the Serpenti sees its body crafted with the Tubogas method, giving it a free-flowing suppleness characteristic of the snake’s body. The innovative technique sets the narrative for the years to come as the 1950s was marked by a more figurative style — precious adornments such as rubies, emeralds and diamonds were encrusted on the Serpenti’s head before paving the way for a more expressive take on the reptile.
In the 1960s, Bvlgari’s creativity and audacity with the Serpenti took off as the snake’s scales were articulated with gemstones and coloured enamel. Unconventional material pairings with extravagant gem settings brought about a new definition to the Serpenti, bringing the imaginations of Bvlgari’s artisans to life. The newfound pizazz also gave birth to the first Serpenti secret jewellery watches that featured a watch dial concealed by the snake’s head.
“Reinterpreting the Serpenti sign over and over without changing its identity is an inspiring challenge,” said Lucia Silvestri, Bvlgari’s jewellery creative director. “It is this perfect balance between its heritage and creativity evolution that has made the icon truly timeless and always in step with the times.”
The evolution of the Serpenti continued over the decades as the jeweller explored and experimented with various forms that slithered into watches, jewellery, leather goods and beyond — including the ultra-sleek Bvlgari Serpenti Viper, the evergreen Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas and enigmatic Bvlgari Serpenti Secret Watches. From one mesmerising form to another, the Serpenti continues its endless intertwining with Bvlgari.
Once you are done with this story on the Bvlgari Serpenti 75, click here to catch up with the rest of our April 2023 issue.
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