Demna goes witt-e for Winter 2024.
Tackling the new times of artificial intelligence, doomscrolling, parasocial-ity, and more, the Georgian national has thus hypothesised clothes that mimic the experiences and personalities that one might find themselves embodying when screen time isn’t limited.
Set against surround LED wall panelling that resembled that of Diesel’s, Balenciaga’s Winter 2024 was different, for the reasons of intent and messaging. Diesel weaponised Zoom attendees to discuss concepts like voyeurism and surveillance — and Balenciaga was more concerned with the overconsumption that is inextricable in today’s internet culture.
“Is fashion enough? Is anything ever enough?” were some think-out-louds that steered its manifesto for the season. Delivered audibly in a pre-show show note over Instagram’s newest broadcast channel feature, it was almost ironic. If there were criticisms to be made over the patterns of media consumption, then why utilise social media for a declaration of this sort? Demna, we conclude, was not trying to deride or scorn such culture.
The collection mirrored the mould of his existential exchange. The closing look constructed out of panties and bras recalled the fan cultures of throwing one’s undergarments on stage in a parasocial act of love profession. Accessories pointed to the phenomenon of online anonymity, as models had their eyes censored by over-the-nose beanies or opaque wraparounds. Both offerings made so the models could look out, but no one could see in. Look 29, fitted with harnesses, chains and d-rings, seemed to touch on the unseen of cam-culture. Paper tags and dust bags that are typically unseen in an OOTDs — each signalling newness — were made to be the clothes.
All encompassing or not, Balenciaga’s profiling of netizens was a democratic demonstration. There is a piece of everyone in one look or another, which meant that either way, there was still that digital function of relatability.
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our March 2024 issue.
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