Hevel is Keong Saik’s newest contemporary; punching above its weight to deliver a dining experience that is steeped in levity and flavour.
There are dining destinations that suit different desires. For some, a trusty gastro-bar would be the solution to boozy cravings and a casually-set meal. And there are the ones that lean pompous: good for a first date; or perhaps celebrating that special something. But at Hevel — the new kid on the Keong Saik block — is a one-size-fits-all strategy. Grounded in a philosophy of European cuisine, but made spirited with a convivial approach through and through, Hevel is the third concept to follow in the footsteps of Marcy’s and Parliament Bar. The same credo of levity can be observed: in a supremely decorated space rests the potential to let loose and have fun, best seen through its food and beverage programming.
For context, “supremely decorated” is no exaggeration. Packed with ambient punches of light and enough reflective surfaces to give the space a gleamy energy, the space holds no bars in all things opulent. Lounge-friendly loveseats and booths set up a perfect scene for keeping company; no matter what size of group that entails. Echoing its commitment to the 70’s aesthetic, marble, burl and suede take on rich jewel tones as burgundies and warm ochres sufficiently set interiors as warm and intimate. And as intimate as one would get with food, diners are (on the occasion,) encouraged to ditch the humble fork and knife, in favour of using their hands: to lift, tear, dip and devour all the pleasurable plates and pairings.
The hefty portions doled out in its six course menu ($138) are perfect morsels for this practice, to shed any typified routines or rules of eating and drinking. The meal unfolds with a tongue-in-cheek trompe-loeil moment. A trio of snacks — comprising a caviar-laden orange donut, a maguro tuna choux pastry, and a fruit-forward liver-and-apple bite — are crafted in the make of palatable desserts; just because. As the courses get served, it gets abundantly clear that Hevel is serious about instilling recreation into its work, best achieved via its indulgence ploy. Saccharine toppings and glazes are plated up on dishes like the porcini-rubbed pork presa and the passionfruit and daikon-dressed cured mackerel. The penultimate duck with roasted barley course is a rollercoaster ride of a mouthfeel, as tender duck confit combines with gummy barley porridge and delicate onion foam for a course that delivers pronounced yet harmonic savoury layers. Guests are even allowed a cheeky second-serving too.
And if the savouries reflected some sort of inclination toward the sweet, naturally, the same principle gets inverted for the afters. The hero of the night stands firm in the double-dessert course of earl grey pudding and strawberries and cream. Sugared and then balanced with the earthiness of its sencha tuille, and tartness of its yuzu accompaniment respectively, the final course brings the dining experience full circle. Similar is its beverage programme. Fortified wines get spotlit here, as madeira, sherry and port take focus in cocktails and straight-ups. Ranging in degrees of flavour intensity, profile and ABV, the sheer scale of Hevel’s beverage menu reminds of its philosophy: playful, fun and something for everyone.
Hevel is open for dinner from Tuesday to Saturday from 6-11:30pm. Online reservations can be made here. Once you’re done with this story, click here to catch up with our December/January 2024 issue.
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