There are people who chase dreams, and there are those who fall into an opportunity that they — with time, effort and skill — harness into a dream. Chef Mathew Leong belongs to the latter group; at just 27, he is the Executive Chef role at RE-NAA, the only restaurant in Norway to have two stars in the Scandinavian Michelin Guide; the first Singaporean to be featured in Forbes 30 Under 30 Europe since the list was first introduced seven years ago, and the only Singaporean in this year’s list; a finalist in the prestigious Bocuse d’Or 2021 — a biennial world chef championship — ranking the highest a Singaporean has ever gotten since 1991.
What made him take a chance and move to Norway right after his military service? What was it that eventually led him back to RE-NAA, the very first kitchen that he trained in overseas? What gave him the courage to pursue this endeavour, and to climb to where he is today? We speak to Mathew to learn more about what it’s like to fly the Singapore flag high overseas in a culinary world, championing our penchant for multicultural innovation.
Hi Mathew! Can you describe what you do for a living in 10 or less words?
I’m the Executive Chef in two-Michelin-starred RE-NAA and Matbaren Bistro by RE-NAA in Norway.
Was being a chef your dream since young? How did you end up in this industry?
I was 13 when I had my first brush with the culinary world; under my teachers’ recommendations, I took part in my first culinary competition in secondary school. My first culinary competition was also the competition that gave me my first gold.
During one of the competitions I had competed in, the theme for the competition was Norwegian Salmon, and Chef Jimmy Chok was one of the judges. Even though I did not emerge as champion, Chef Jimmy Chok saw the potential in me and offered me the chance to spend a day with him in his kitchen at his restaurant located in the Supreme Court.
I remember I was in awe the moment I stepped into his kitchen because it was my first time being in a professionally run kitchen — at that moment, I knew that this was where my passion lies in and this is what I want to do. Chef Jimmy Chok taught me a lot about the industry and culinary during my one-day kitchen tour at his restaurant.
This experience really ignited my passion to be a chef and achieve culinary excellence. I’d say that, if it’s not for the opportunity given to me by Chef Jimmy Chok, I would not be where I am today, embarking on this culinary journey.
Is there a particular dish that inspired you to take up cooking?
Rather than a particular dish, I have always had an interest in creating dishes that fuse Asian flavour with French cuisine.
What led you to RE-NAA?
I didn’t specifically choose Norway to pursue my career. The opportunity came and I decided to take it. At that time, there wasn’t a Michelin Guide in Singapore and I really wanted to work in a Michelin Star restaurant to further my skills. As such, after completing my National Service, I sent more than 100 resumes to restaurants around Europe and very luckily, got a reply from two-Michellin-starred RE-NAA, which is located in Stavanger, Norway, taking on the role as Chef De Partie.
After my one year stint with RE-NAA, I returned back to Singapore for eight months before Chef Ulrik Jepsen, co-owner of Michelin Plate restaurant À L’aise in Norway, Oslo, offered me the role as a Chef De Partie there. In a span of three years, I was promoted to Head Chef.
When I was competing in Bocuse d’Or Final 2021, I met Chef Sven Erik Renaa at the event and during our catch up, he asked me about my plans and I casually shared with him that I would be leaving À L’aise soon with no plans on where I would be moving to next. A few months later, he contacted me and offered me the Executive Chef role at RE-NAA.
What is your design and culinary philosophy when creating dishes?
Passion, clean style and flavour, and having very clear identity.
When it comes to creating dishes, my culinary philosophy is that everything on the plate has to be “clean” with style, and flavourful. To me, sauces hold an important component in providing that extra flavour to the food, so I always place a huge emphasis on making my sauces for the dishes.
While flavour plays an important role, having a clean kitchen is equally important — it represents your personal approach to food and how much you care you have for those that eat your food.
Where do you find inspiration?
My inspiration comes from my everyday life. I recently had a black sesame gelato, and because I loved the flavour so much, I went to the kitchen the next day and started brainstorming on how I could make a dessert with that same flavour. But I find inspiration in places outside the realm of food as well, like in architecture. If I spot something interesting in the landscape around me, I would find ways to incorporate them into the design of my food. One of the dishes I presented at Bocuse d’Or Final 2021 was inspired by Gardens By the Bay.
What does it feel like to be the first and only Singaporean so far to be featured in the Forbes 30 Under 30 Europe 2023 list? What was your reaction like when you first found out about this?
I was thrilled. Getting into the Forbes 30 Under 30 list has always been one of my goals since I started my culinary journey and it feels surreal to have managed to turn my dream into a reality, with the help from people who have supported me since day one.
I also feel extremely honoured to be the first and only Singapore to make it to this year’s list under the Arts & Culture category. I’m glad and elated to be flying the Singapore flag high overseas.
If you could name one person, who has played the most significant role in your career journey so far?
That would be my boss Sven Erik Renaa, who’s also the chef owner of RE-NAA restaurant. I am immensely grateful towards him. Eight years ago he took a chance on me and gave me a lifetime of opportunity to embark on my culinary journey in Norway. I would not be where I am today if it wasn’t for him — I have achieved so many career milestones and highlights to date while working in Norway. This includes, being the first and only Singaporean to make the Forbes 30 Under 30 Europe list; invited by Michelin Guide Singapore to be back in Singapore last year to cook for the gala dinner and revelation event; hold the Executive Chef position at 28; and being the youngest chef to represent Singapore to compete in Bocuse d’Or 2021. I am also thankful for his collective mentorship and support since day one.
You were also the youngest candidate to represent Singapore in Bocuse d’Or Finals 2021, and you came in 12th, the highest ranking a Singaporean has gotten since 1991 — how was that experience like?
The whole experience was eye-opening and memorable. It has to be one of my biggest career highlights to date. The feeling when I was competing with some of the best chefs in the world at the competition hall was really surreal, the whole atmosphere so intense yet exciting. I also learned a lot during the whole process. From planning, to designing and conceptualizing the final dishes, it was really tedious from start to end, having to work with so many groups of people, going through so many trial-and-errors for the idea to finally come to life.
Back then, I was working full-time as head chef at A L’aise from Tuesday to Saturday, clocking an average of 15 hours a day. During my off days on Sunday and Monday, I would train for Bocuse d’Or Final 2021 with my team at my own kitchen/training ground for 10 hours.
Due to this tight schedule, I had no rest day for almost 2 years. It was extremely tough, but that it trained me to be stronger both physically and mentally.
Do you have any new challenges you want to take on as the Singapore representative in the upcoming Bocuse d’Or Final 2024/2025?
Since Bocuse d’Or started in 1987, the highest placing ever achieved by an Asian country was Bronze – Singapore in 1989 and Japan in 2013. Representing both Singapore and Asia, I want to make history by clinching our first ever gold, and showcase Asia’s culinary expertise to the world.
What is a dish you like to eat but do not like to make?
As a Cantonese, Cantonese is my favourite cuisine and is something I am still trying to learn to cook. While I love Cantonese-style steam fish, I do not enjoy making it as my expertise is French or Nordic cuisine with Asian flavours, it’s still a challenge to me to cook a proper nice Cantonese dish.
Do you listen to music when you cook? If yes, what do you listen to? If no, what kind of environment do you prefer to be in when preparing your courses?
I’m an old soul at heart so I love listening to all the classic oldies. Some of my favourites are Sleepy Lagoon by The Platters, The 59th Street Bridge Song by Simonn & Garfunkel, and The Last Waltz by Engelbert Humperdinck. I enjoy songs by The Beatles as well. Even when working out in the gym, I would be listening to classic old songs, instead of songs that are intense or fast paced.
Lastly, what is one Singaporean dish that you think best encapsulates your idea of Singaporean food culture?
Rather than a dish, I would say that the hawker culture in Singapore is an integral part of the way of life for Singaporeans, where people from all walks of life gather to dine and bond over their favourite hawker food. Over the years, this unique combination of food, space and community has evolved into a microcosm of Singapore’s multicultural society.
Home to the world’s cheapest Michelin-starred meal, there’s no doubt our hawker food is exceptional, but the significance of hawker cuisine reaches much further than a quick, cheap eat — it represents our culture and history.
Once you’re done with this story, click here to catch up with our April 2023 issue.
RELATED ARTICLES
The AI-fication Of Facial Treatments
