Chef Carlo Mirarchi is someone I would describe as hip, a little off-beat and easy to warm up to. Just like the cosy nook that houses the first overseas outlet of Roberta’s, Chef Carlo was laid-back in a setting as hearty as the pizzas they are famed for serving — a brief respite from the buzz from the Formula One weekend.
Visiting our sunny island to give the menu here a facelift, we talk to the co-owner and executive chef of the chain about his love for food, his favourite pizzas and how he makes sure Roberta’s remains an essence and not a taste, different but the same wherever home may be.
Hello Chef! How was your flight here?
It was great. No problems. I planned my sleep well, so I haven’t been jet lagged.
Singapore is where the first Roberta’s resides outside the States. Why choose Singapore?
Primarily because its such a mix of cultures and it feels very representative of what we have in the restaurant, like the people that work for us, people that come to the restaurant, and it felt like it would be a welcoming environment for us.
How did this overseas project for you guys start though?
It started with a partnership with Andy, someone I’ve known for a really long time. We built it around the people we hired. Everyone was hired by Brandon and myself, the founder and owner, and we flew them all out to New York to train with the chefs there.
We sent people here to train on our side as well, so we took a very sincere approach to it. We took it really seriously.
I’m sure the ingredients are very different here compared to what you guys use in Bushwick. How are you guys maintaining the original taste and feel of your food here at Roberta’s in Singapore?
Well, you don’t. It’s not about making the food taste the same. We’re not trying to replicate things. We just want to make things taste really really good, and just because something doesn’t taste the same doesn’t mean it doesn’t taste good.
You want the consistency in quality, but it’s not about repeating the flavours just because. We just want to make good food.
How would you describe your relationship with food?
Since I was a kid, my mom, dad and grandparents cooked a lot. And well professionally, I started working in restaurants since I was 16, and that was all I was ever good at.
Is there someone you look up to for this though?
My dad and grandmother. Well at least from a food perspective, I grew my love of food from what they made, but they definitely did not want me to get into the food business or anything. Now, I hope they’re ok with it, but they still give me a hard time sometimes.
Did you ever envision yourself and Roberta’s becoming so big and international? What do you feel about this now?
It still feels like we have a hand in everything, involved in the decisions, and it makes me proud more than anything else. I feel really lucky.
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What have you learned from handling a kitchen that has seen such tremendous amounts of growth and change over the years?
You have to manage a big kitchen as you would a small kitchen. Not in the same exact manner, but you need to have the same values and approach, same culture. You have to support and educate but hold a standard, and if you do that correctly and are involved in the process, you are going to be where you should be.
But the minute you take too many steps away, you’ll lose track of everything.
I encourage my people to put themselves in the space. There’s always a right and wrong way to do things, but those are limited to a very specific range. There is no right or wrong way when you are trying to create something that is unique to a place. I really like the kitchen scene here. I’ve worked with them for over a year now and we spend a lot of time together.
I’ve seen them grow and I’m happy that they are now thinking independently. They are not trying to just replicate Roberta’s as it is in Bushwick or Los Angeles, it’s Roberta’s as it should be in Singapore.
What is one tip you would give for upgrading basic food to really, really good food?
Taste what you are making while you are making it, and don’t put a lot of pressure on yourself.
How do you find new tastes? Come up with recipes?
It’s not always about finding new things. If you always set out to make something new, you won’t make something good. I try to start from the product first, the ingredients, then work from there.
And your favourite pizza to make is?
The Ursula, it’s a clam pizza. We are going to put it on the menu soon. We are using Venus clams, clams you can get here. I love those clams.
Then what about the best pizza you have had?
In my life? I don’t think I can answer that. (Laughs) Probably the pizza that my great aunt makes.
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We can’t not talk about all the famous guests who have patronised Roberta’s. Who has been the most interesting person to cook for? Or do you have any interesting stories?
There is this artist that I really love. His name is Alex Becerra. He comes to the restaurant all the time. I’m a huge fan of his so that’s pretty great. He’s a painter.
Now, is there any cuisine in particular you are interested in exploring?
Peranakan food. I’ve never seen it in the US before and I really want to try it.
To end off on a fun note, what was the last song that you listened to?
Hola Juan Carlos X Files by Mc Cumbia.
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