What’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s endgame? Just two seasons in, and it’s already clear: bright, fun, a little surreal, with a pinch of sexiness. What Jonathan Anderson did for Loewe wasn’t merely to wipe the dust off a nearly two-century-old luxury house, but to inject it with fresh, contemporary DNA. So, when his successors were named, and the change of guard was in motion, a simple question was asked by critics: Do you dial it up a notch, or tone it down and rewire it from scratch?

Jack and Lazaro’s answer was clear: up, up, up we go. Either methodology was bound to receive criticism anyway. And for the Anderson loyalists who scoff at Loewe, well, they simply don’t get it. But make no mistake. What Jack and Lazaro are building for the house of Loewe is not merely a continuation of Jonathan’s codes, but mutations of them. Craft is paramount at every Loewe show, though never without a sense of fun. That gets dialled up to the max at the FW26 show.

Staged in a big box venue, floored with Big Bird-coloured parquet, Loewe sends down 65 looks down the runway. Each model steps out with neoprene water-bootie-esque heels and some variation of lump, bump or constraint to the silhouettes. “For us, the act of making is, at its core, an expression of joy,” the creative duo said. There was a level of childlike wonder to the clothes, but never in a infantilizing or pandering way.  The opening look is a shiny pale yellow slipdress that doesn’t flow like it normally should, but rather, jolts up and down with the movements of the model’s horsewalk. The new Loewe isn’t afraid of a little CMYK either. Bright hues of red, yellow, and orange dominate the collection — the only prints found were used in constraint, gingham patterns rendered in varying scales, from large to miniature.

Loewe’s innovations don’t emerge out of thin air, but from a rigorous process of experimentation. More often than not, this work unfolds behind the closed doors of the atelier. This time, however, it almost feels as though the audience is invited into that process, reviewing the results as they walk down the runway. Material and colour pairings are deliberately unconventional: neoprene meets leather, fur clashes with latex. At first glance, these roulette-like combinations feel random, even confrontational. Yet they are intriguing enough to hold our attention — and by the end, most of us are convinced. That’s the new Loewe for you.

Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our March 2026 issue.