Don’t be fooled by Bincho’s modernist interiors — the Izakaya is a near-perfect replicate of the authentic ones in Japan. Just ask its countless Japanese white-collar patrons.

It’s a blessing that a lot of Singapore’s Japanese establishments serve food that tastes pretty close to what you would get in Japan. You don’t have to travel all the way there to taste the quality seafood or meats that define the fresh allure of the cuisine. But the one aspect that is hard to emulate is atmosphere, and its specifically that of an izakaya — an essential part that makes of Japanese food and drinking culture so charming.

Izakayas first appeared in the Edo period (1603-1868), serving as venues for locals to relax and bond with their peers. Then, these places were simply known as “drinking establishments” and were often found close to busy thoroughfares, offering limited food and beverage selections alongside alcohol.

Bincho, a hidden-in-plain-sight dual-concept izakaya at Tiong Bahru offers something reminiscent of that spirit, serving some of Japan’s best seasonal produce alongside libations interestingly inspired by samurai films. Unassuming in the day and a vibrant underground speakeasy in the evening, this hole-in-the-wall dystopian gem has been sharing a space with a heritage Moh Guan Terrace coffeeshop — Hua Bee Restaurant — for the past 10 years, its menu working now a decade in perfection – now presenting charcoal-grilled goodness with “pride in produce” at its core.

Flanked by green neon strips and a raw, exposed interior typical of urban hideouts, Bincho emulates the narrow Japanese alleyways behind buildings, similarly intimate in setting with its compact, open-plan kitchens. The name actually comes from the helming chef, Chef Hazu’s, mastery of the binchō-tan — grilling food over white charcoal to create a distinct and tantalising smoky essence. It’s most evidently tasted in their Yakitori Platter; the Thigh, textural Neck, Liver and Cocks Comb are especially fragrant and tender, all using only GG French Poulet birds that are carefully bred by the local, family-owned Toh Thye San Farm. It’s also paired with a house-made tare sauce, premium grade yuzu kosho and ponzu — perfect staters to the rest of their creative and well-made menu.

Another star item that displays this deft manipulation of charcoal flames is the Seasonal Vegetables platter, which features the best of the Japan during the time of serving. When we visited, the offerings included an unbelievably sweet Japanese White Corn, Japanese Brinjal, Japanese pumpkin and Japanese asparagus.