There is no experience more impactful than an honest meal and earnest hospitality, so Locanda makes for an appealing culinary stopover that should not be missed.
On a trip to San Sebastián in Spain’s Basque region a few years ago, a group of friends and I stumbled into a humble, no-frills establishment run by an elderly couple, serving traditional Basque fare. Upon taking in the first spoonful of the warm, hearty cod lentil stew that was served, tears welled up in my eyes. Although the dish was foreign, its flavours carried a distinct sense of nostalgic familiarity that reminded me of my grandmother’s love-filled, homely cooking. In that moment, I was a young boy sitting in her kitchen once again. Perhaps it was the cold and exhaustion I was suffering from; perhaps it was the warm hospitality said couple embraced our strange group with, despite the language barrier — but there is no denying that the experience would have been far less impactful without that simple yet comforting bowl of cod lentil stew.
Five years on, that memory remains one of the highlights from the trip — such is the profound effect that comforting fare and a warm embrace can have on weary travellers. Food is and always has been a powerful, universal expression of love, transcending time, space, and language. It is no surprise that it forms the backbone of some cultures.
One such example would be Italian culture, where food forms the cornerstone across numerous aspects of the Italian way of life — hospitality amongst them. In that regard, Locanda — Michelin-starred Italian fine dining establishment Buona Terra’s latest trattoria concept — seeks to bring some of that quintessential Italian love and hospitality to Singapore through its comforting, hearty fare.
In English, “locanda” translates to “inn”. As its name suggests, the establishment is inspired by the traditional Italian inns that were welcoming places of respite for weary travellers to recharge for the rest of the journey. Everything about Locanda is carefully considered — from its location on the fringes of the bustling CBD (just like traditional Italian locandas), to the warm, convivial atmosphere fostered by operations manager Daniele Fiore and his team, and of course, in the food served.
It goes without saying that the fare is warm, honest and comforting— executed more casually than what Buona Terra serves, but something that highlights resident chef Denis Lucchi’s culinary heritage and range nonetheless. Helmed by his protégés — head chef William Bai and sous chef Anthony Chang — their combined wealth of culinary experience and knowledge imbue each dish with that familiar Italian hospitality and warmth.
The starters already hint at the place’s relaxed atmosphere: an unconventional presentation of focaccia in bruschetta form is playfully dubbed “bruschaccia”. Toppings range from grilled zucchini with smoked scamorza, to Northern Italian Casera cheese with lardo and shaved truffle. The yellowtail crudo will sate those seeking fresher flavours: served with Amalfi lemon puree, charred orange and dill oil., the dish is a fresh, zesty burst of coastal flavours and textures.
Anyone who has visited Buona Terra knows their speciality is pasta. With Locanda, that same expertise shines through, although its execution. Highlights include the Tagliolini served with fresh tomato, crab and a dash of lemon, and the Pappardelle Ragu Genovese with mixed mushrooms. The former is a delicately balanced harmony of sweet, zesty and umami flavours, with the sweetness of the crab meat and tomato dancing perfectly with the fresh, rich flavours the fish stock imparts.
The latter — easily the pick of the pasta lineup — sees different cuts of Australian beef braised with stock and tomato sauce before being shredded and combined with mushrooms sauteed with garlic, oil, butter, and deglazed with white wine. The dish as a whole is a smooth, homely affair — with the silky texture of the handmade pappardelle a fitting foil for the rich, earthy umami of the mushrooms and beef to blossom.
For those looking to fully immerse in the homely atmosphere of the establishment, the Spaghetti al Frutti di Mare is a hearty sharing option. As its name suggests, it is a spaghetti dish tossed in a tomato sauce braised in seafood stock and topped off with a myriad of clams, lobster, scampi, red prawns and Carabinero prawns. The result is a comfortingly sweet yet piquant union of fresh sea flavours — the seafood stock providing a solid base for the freshness of the variety of seafood to express themselves.
Dessert is simple but satisfying. The highlight is the Sicilian Cannolo, which is also served at Buona Terra. It consists of a mix of Artigiana ricotta cheese, chopped Valrhona 55% chocolate, candied orange, and Sicilian pistachio, piped into a crisp pastry comprising flour, cocoa, coffee powder, and marsala. The cannolis are an elevated take on the Italian classic.
Of course, Locanda being in Singapore removes the struggle of overseas travel that makes hearty fare and warm hospitality such an important source of comfort, but who is to say that Locanda cannot be that same source of comfort on a tough day, or that respite at the end of a long work week? Regardless, one thing is for sure — at Locanda, there will always be a lovingly tender culinary embrace, no matter the occasion.
Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our September 2024 issue.
RELATED ARTICLES
