Suntory's 2024 Tsukuriwake Series Bids You Welcome - Men's Folio

Suntory’s 2024 Tsukuriwake Series Bids You Welcome

Fantastic four.

By Ben Kwok


Japanese whisky has amassed quite the reputation these days — when examples like Suntory’s 2024 Tsukuriwake Series are paired with great food, the reason why becomes especially clear. 

It has been established for a while now that most things Japanese are great — from electronics to entertainment, and watches to cars, you simply can’t go wrong if you go Japanese. Likewise in the area of spirits — Japanese whisky has gained an immense reputation for itself in recent years, and when examples like Suntory’s Tsukuriwake Series exist, it is clear as day why Japanese whisky as a category is held in such high regard. At a recent omakase pairing dinner at renowned chef Taro Takayama’s establishment Takayama, however, that understanding was taken to new heights.

Suntory's 2024 Tsukuriwake Series Bids You WelcomeBefore getting into the tasting, it must first be acknowledged that Japanese whisky does share some heritage — and hence, similarity — to its Scotch counterparts. After all, Masataka Taketsuru, widely viewed as the founding father of Japanese whisky and a key figure in Suntory’s history, did spend some time as an apprentice in a variety of renowned Scotch distilleries in the early 20th century. That said, it is crucial to distinguish the differences between the two, chiefly in the differing approaches to whisky-making that Japanese and Scottish whisky-makers adopt: the former places emphasis on the artistry and craft of selecting and marrying components within the process, while their Scottish peers prefer to focus on what the process is. Both approaches have their merits, but understanding the difference between the two is key to establishing why the 2024 Tsukuriwake Series is such a wondrous collection.

Keeping the focus on the Tsukuriwake Series — it stands as the embodiment of the Japanese approach to whisky-making. First released in 2020, the series spotlights the artisanship involved in selecting and crafting the components that eventually form the expressions in the collection, with innovative yet considered choices of grain, cask wood, and maturation processes manifesting in one way or another across these expressions.

In order to fully experience and appreciate the sweet fruit of their distillers’ labour, Suntory has collaborated with five Japanese omakase chefs across as many establishments in Singapore. Kazuhiro Hamamoto of Hamamoto, Keiichi Kobayashi of Shinji by Kanesaka, Ryujiro Nakamura of Sushi Ryujiro Singapore, Taro Takayama of Takayama, and Tetsuya Wakuda of Wakuda have all crafted their own special pairing menus that bring out the nuances of the collection. Like how good live music is made better with properly-engineered acoustics, these pairings — as we found out at Takayama — play up the nuances and enhance the overall flavour of the whiskies, creating an exquisite experience, especially for those with discerning palates.

Suntory's 2024 Tsukuriwake Series Bids You WelcomeThe first expression sampled was the non-age stated Yamazaki Golden Promise. Made from the heritage Golden Promise barley that was used in Scotland in the 1960s-1970s, whiskies made from these grains are said to possess a fuller body and an extra creamy mouthfeel, making for a richer, maltier flavour profile. The Yamazaki Golden Promise’s profile is exactly that — malt, vanilla and honey on the nose preface the notes of creamy oatmeal, honey and vanilla malt on the palate, with a fresh citrus note coming in on the smooth, long finish. Paired with a variety of sashimi, the oily fattiness of the sea bream in particular enhanced the creamy mouthfeel of the Golden Promise, and played up the vanilla and oatmeal notes.

Suntory's 2024 Tsukuriwake Series Bids You WelcomeNext on the night was the Yamazaki Islay Peated Malt. An expression with a Scottish heart, this expression uses peated malt from the Laphroaig distillery, which is shipped to Yamazaki Distillery where it is distilled. For those more accustomed to the classic sweet, fruity and earthy Yamazaki notes, the prospect of intense, smoky Islay flavours being added to the mix might seem intimidating, but rest assured: the Yamazaki Islay Peated Malt is closer to a peated Highland than a proper, fiery Islay.

Yes, there is a smoke note present on the nose, but it is not overwhelming. What follows is a deliciously-balanced mix of sea salt, sugar and candied fruit notes on the palate, before the smoke note gently fades back in on the smooth, warm finish. Accompanied by the Foie Gras Monaka — essentially a foie gras pate set in a rice cracker and topped with dabs of fruit puree — the rich yet tangy flavour of the foie gras gave the whisky’s mouthfeel a creamy boost, while granting the smoky and sweet notes the opportunity to shine without competing with each other. Rather surprisingly (considering the other whiskies in the flight), this proved to be the pick of the night for most present — including Chef Taro Takayama himself.

Suntory's 2024 Tsukuriwake Series Bids You WelcomeThe Hakushu 18 Year Old came next, specially curated by Suntory brand ambassador Andrew Pang to follow the Yamazaki Islay Peated Malt in order to highlight the different ways peat is expressed in both of Suntory’s flagship distilleries. Although both expressions utilise the same Laphroaig peated malt for their bases, the softer water that Yamazaki Distillery uses is the main reason behind the variation in flavour between the Yamazaki Islay Peated Malt and the Hakushu 18 Years Old.

Regardless, both expressions are great in their own ways. For the Hakushu 18 Year Old, the expression stands as testament to the depth and complexity the oft-overlooked distillery is capable of. Hints of fresh green apple greet the nose, before a delightfully surprising mix of herbal, leathery, minty and smoky notes spread over the palate. The smoke note dissipates and gives way to a mix of sweet honey notes, accompanied by sherry-forward earthiness and spice. Once again, the finish is fresh and citrusy, with the smoke note fading back in. While a smoke note is also present in the Yamazaki Islay Peated Malt, the Hakushu 18 Year Old’s is an intriguing one — it is cleaner, lighter, and more reminiscent of sweet incense, as opposed to the Yamazaki’s heavier, saltier, coastal profile.

Suntory's 2024 Tsukuriwake Series Bids You WelcomeSaving the best for last, the Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year Old rounded out proceedings. For those beginning to explore the wonders of Japanese whisky, Mizunara is a highly prized, government-protected and regulated Japanese oak, treasured for its rarity and notorious difficulty to work with. In order to reach the thickness levels required for it to be used to make casks, it needs to be hundreds of years old — even then, it is an incredibly porous wood, garnering an infamous reputation for fragility. Add to that the wood’s temperamental nature when it comes to the ageing process — too short a maturation period results in an undesirably sharp and harsh whisky — and it’s clear to see why, when done perfectly, Mizunara-aged whiskies are such a prized commodity.

Flavour-wise, this iteration of the Yamazaki Mizunara 18 Year Old does not deviate from the well-trodden path its predecessors have taken — retaining the same complexity, depth and impeccable roundedness. Fruity notes of peach and cherry form the top notes, segueing into more tropical, bright candied fruit notes of peach, lychee and coconut on the palate, bolstered by a hint of woody incense. The finish is as long and smooth as expected of a whisky of this ilk — sandalwood and coconut notes gently float around on the finish as well. Paired with A5 wagyu beef served with a cured Japanese egg yolk, the mix of sweetness from the yolk and piquant fattiness of the beef enhanced the incense note, while bringing out the subtler note of candied orange.

Ultimately, the substantial amount of effort and thought that went into every step of the experience — from the extraordinary craftsmanship that went into the whiskies, right up to the hospitality, deep consideration and artisanship Chef Takayama put into bringing each dish to life — was obvious in each mouthful of food and every sip of whisky. There are whisky pairings, and then there are whisky pairings — this experience firmly falls into the latter.

The pairing dinners are open for bookings, and will take place in August 2024. For reservations and more information, click here.

Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our August 2024 issue.