Louis Vuitton Presents Two New High Watchmaking Novelties
Having already released the Escale Spin Time and the Tambour Outdoor Chronograph GMT this year, Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking division La Fabrique Du Temps seemingly upped the ante with a duo of Haute Horlogerie creations worth making a double-take.
The first of which sees the Spin Time — Louis Vuitton’s inimitable complication — decked out in its boldest take yet as the newest Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum takes a disruptive stance against conventional codes of Haute Horlogerie. Since its birth in 2009, the Spin Time never ceased to fascinate with its three-dimensional kinetic display and has been decked in various decorations including hand-painted Louis Vuitton trunk motifs, diamond-studded blocks, or monochromatic cubes.
Harnessing light as the latest expression of La Fabrique du Temps’ creativity and innovativeness, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum thrills with a newly developed luminescent module. While electronics are often regarded as the bane of high watchmaking, Louis Vuitton marries both worlds as noted by Jean Arnault, Director of Marketing and Development for Louis Vuitton Watches.
“After twelve years of refinement of our patented Spin Time, we decided to venture toward unprecedented technical challenges.”
“The Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum is not only a formidable horological feat, it is a unique and disruptive complicated hybrid watch that combines the best of the mechanical and electronic worlds at the service of both legibility and design.”
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum takes a familiar guise recognised by its fans, a drum-shaped case with 12 mobile hour cubes. Time is read off from the 12-hour cubes with the current hour depicted by a black cube against the ones in yellow while the central hand indicates the minutes. Clad predominantly in black, streaks of yellow impart a futuristic outlook hinting at the energised core within. Drawing inspiration from the bioluminescence of deep-sea creatures, a dozen tiny light-emitting diodes (LED) are positioned within the Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum hour cubes. Activating the push-button crown illuminates the Spin Time hour cubes for a spectacular light show on the wrist that elevates the time-telling experience beyond that of traditional watchmaking. The light lingers for three seconds before going off when the button is released, otherwise, the light maintains its glow as long as the button is engaged.
A combination of cutting-edge material engineering and microelectronics come together to form the foundation of the Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum. A series of specially made hour cubes are required for maximum light propagation as fused silica (glass) is used in place of conventional steel. Extreme levels of purity are required to optimise the light diffusion which inadvertently requires a more laborious manufacturing process. A further milky engraving is done to the surface planes for homogenous light dispersion.
At the heart of the watch is the Spin Time LV 68 Calibre that controls the time-telling functions of the Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum. A specially developed 103-component circuitry module that took two years to develop is seamlessly integrated into the movement as the key dimensions of the Tambour case are not altered by the extra addition. While concerns naturally arise from the presence of electronics, La Fabrique du Temps delineated the physical modularity of the electronic and mechanical segments for ease of use and fuss-free maintenance. Two high-performance batteries provide the power that allows the illumination system to be activated six to seven times a day, every day for three years before a replacement is required. A subtle, lighted ring at the base of the crown functions as a battery-level indicator that flickers when the batteries require eventual replacement.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours
The next is an interpretation of Louis Vuitton’s beloved mascot, Vivienne, who enthralled the hearts of many with her irresistible mix of charm, playfulness, and mystery. With her flower-shaped head, arms mimicking luggage tags, and the iconic Louis Vuitton monogram flower as an eye patch, Vivienne is the embodiment of Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s deep love for toys and objects that are well chronicled in the book “Cabinet of Wonders, The Gaston-Louis Vuitton Collection”. After making her maiden appearance in 2017 as a collectable figurine, Vivienne has since graced leather goods, and jewellery and now finds herself bewitching many in Louis Vuitton’s stellar high watchmaking novelties.
Affectionately named the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours, the collection consists of three watches that see Vivienne reprise the roles of a casino croupier, fortune teller, and circus juggler encased within a yellow, pink and white gold case respectively. The thematic decorations are brought to life by the hands of master watchmakers — a vivid green skarn (a rare mineral) dial reminds you of Monte Carlo’s casino tables, Côte d’Azur’s glittery night sky is captured in the aventurine dial while the white-mother-of-pearl dial evokes Cirque d’Hiver Bouglione milky white glow. Precious stones and minerals such as white and black diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and tsavorites complete the dazzling display that extends from the case down to the strap buckle.
Beyond the imaginative themes is Vivienne’s showstopper trick brought to life by the highly respected tag-team duo of Michael Navas and Enrico Barbasini who helm La Fabrique Du Temps. Floating near the hands of Vivienne are two apertures — one displays the current hour while the other is filled with an arcane symbol. The minutes are read from a wand that extends from within Vivienne’s heart, shaped in either a tarot card, poker card, or a Monogram Flower juggling ball according to the theme. While seemingly inconspicuous at first, Vivienne’s trickery happens in a flash — blink and you will miss it — at the stroke of a new hour. Exactly at the next hour, the apertures switch instantaneously and see the positions of the hour display and arcane symbol exchange. This is made possible by the innovative calibre LV 180 that controls the alternating jumping hour complication, a first in present-day horology. A combination of a multi-armed Geneva cross, complex multi-level cam, and a sprung ruby roller allows Vivienne to captivate and tease her audiences through the day.
This story first appeared in our June/July 2022 issue, click here to read it on Magzter.
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