Men’s Folio sits down with Aesop’s Chief Customer Officer to talk about the brand’s prominence in an increasingly wellness-driven beauty climate.

It wasn’t too long ago that the sight of Aesop’s brown-tinted apothecary bottles in friends’ homes or public spaces triggered some form of fascination and envy. Envy for these spaces’ attention to detail, a signifier of the appreciation for the finer aspects of life. But all Aesop has done since its founding in 1987 is stick to its well-placed values and principles, its unwavering allegiance to a science-backed vision and feeling-forward communication turning a cult favourite into a global superstar, mystique still intact.

Given today’s human connection is increasingly done through the filter of a screen, the enduring (and endearing) approach Aesop curates its experiences with is probably why its loyalists have slowly grown in both number and fidelity over time. We speak to the person responsible for keeping this philosophy alive through the years to understand better why sometimes doing less is doing more, and why, perhaps, knowing oneself is the key to acing the beauty game today.

Charmaine: I would like to ask you to consider how Aesop is right now, in its entirety. What is the first emotion that comes to your mind, and why?
Suzanne: To me, it is a mix of very deep and dense feelings. I am much more grateful over the lives that we have been able to make richer for the fact that Aesop exists. I am still constantly inspired by our incredible team across our offices and stores globally, amazed by the amount of people who have chosen to be part of this extraordinary company started by Dennis, someone who has the purest intentions in developing products of high quality for a good cause. I am eternally grateful to be able to witness Aesop’s journey in creating products that touch the lives of millions, where people have had wonderful experiences with the brand, and the impact that has been growing along the way.

C: I feel like the role Aesop plays in the beauty industry today balances the fine line of promoting self-care – not just as a fully integrated lifestyle, but also as one enriched and thus enjoyed through the lens of science. Was this the vision for Aesop since the beginning?
S: Aesop was established with the aim of doing things differently. In 1987, very few companies were using botanical ingredients; however our founder Dennis Paphitis understood the role essential oils could play and the remarkable benefits they could deliver to the skin and hair. Dennis initially pioneered the use of essential oils in formulations to treat colour-damaged hair, and from this work grew a modest hair and body care range. By 1991, we were ready to start developing exceptional skin care products.

Our core philosophy — to deliver products of the finest quality, speak honestly and intelligently to our customers, and never prey on their vulnerabilities or insecurities—has not wavered for thirty-seven years, nor will it in the future. It is our distinguishing attribute in a crowded marketplace.

C: How has Aesop grown or surpassed what you have envisioned? Any key achievements that you are particularly proud of at Aesop?
S: I think the name is a self-creating prophecy, but there was no single line of ambition for what Aesop was to become. Aesop’s founder Dennis’ immediate vision was based on what was, and is, needed in the industry for our customers — in terms of what is being used, whether it is ingredients, packaging, communication or composition.

I think the word ‘pride’ is exactly how I feel. Along with our customers, we have really created a path, a closure and an alternative thinking when it comes to retail experience.

When I think of the lives of all those who have worked within our environment, how we have come up with a myriad of beautiful and artistic ideas together that has made Aesop a great company, a great workplace, it gives me the greatest satisfaction that we have put things right in place, and for that I am very glad.

C: The demands towards skin care are constantly in flux, not just because of trends but because of the way climate change is progressing. Parts of the world that weren’t as humid can suddenly become quite dry, while places that were already humid are experiencing new levels of stickiness (and heat). How has and is Aesop responding to this?
S: Our considered approach to range expansion over our 37-year history has never faltered in meeting the genuine needs of our customers, with all efforts concentrated on creating products that will endure: this approach has been crucial to Aesop’s success.

We ignore product trends and industry conventions by formulating products with a clearly identified purpose, such as our anti-oxidant-rich Parsley Seed Skin Care range, developed in response to the needs of urban-dwellers whose skin is exposed to environmental stressors daily.

With increased awareness of the influence of our environment and how this may impact the skin’s condition, we identified an opportunity to build in additional layers of efficacy to support and complement the range with antioxidant benefits.

C: The Immaculate Facial Tonic seems like it holds some of the answers to Aesop’s approach to skin care. It’s also a tonic, and not toner. Why decide to develop a more concentrated version of the toner for the Skin Care+ range?
Samy Hamada (R&D Director): The formulation offers a gentle, daily-use alternative to physical exfoliating to soften and refine the skin gradually with continued use.

The introduction of Immaculate Facial Tonic further elevates our Skin Care range by combining the benefits of an Aesop Toner with an exfoliant.

The consistent and continued success of Purifying Facial Exfoliating Paste across all regions, coupled with the relatively small size of our offering, demonstrates a great opportunity for an expansion of the Exfoliate segment. By providing additional choices — both physical and chemical, as well as primary and secondary exfoliants — we seek to appeal to a wider range of customer needs and preferences.

C: For those who are curious, what is your own skincare regimen like? Do you have any personal Aesop favourites? Or perhaps a product combo that works especially well for you?
S: The interesting thing is with a brand like Aesop, you are challenged with such choices, as to which product you would use each day.

We have products that just illuminate our lives, for instance Immaculate Facial Tonic is absolutely not a staple, but a mandatory part of my everyday life.

I want to remind the readers that, our days change, the seasons change and the impact on our skin changes, hence our skincare routine would also change accordingly, on a daily basis.

When in warmer climates such as in Singapore, I would take great pleasure to cleanse my face with In Two Minds Facial Cleanser. And after that, I would use Primrose Facial Cleansing Masque, then wipe that off my face with simply three strokes for a clean and fresh finish, and not going to have to be bothered with flashing water everywhere. I am going to be very kind to my skin tonight, so I would further decongest my skin with a few drops of Fabulous Face Oil. This is one set of skin care principles you could apply for heat and humidity, but the combinations itself are also endless.

C: I think this preference comes in waves, but it seems the maximalist multi-product regimen trend is taking a backseat for something simpler (e.g. a two-product regime) nowadays. Is there a right way to love your skin?
S: When discussing skin care at Aesop, we focus primarily on optimising and supporting the skin’s health by addressing its current condition and identifying products that will unequivocally meet its needs. And we speak not to age or gender, but to the more pertinent matter of how your skin feels and behaves in response to environmental conditions, hormonal fluctuations, your diet, how well you sleep, and other influential factors. In addition, we advocate a healthy, balanced lifestyle as a vital corollary if the products you apply topically are to be truly effective.

I believe the notion that there are critical behaviours you have to adopt when it comes to taking care of your skin, which are the least amount of effort, despite what you imagine. I would recommend people to walk into their bathrooms, put our cleansers on their faces, and just learn to appreciate the pleasure of cleansing off the day regardless of the weather. Washing up because it there is nothing quite as fabulous as that feeling, and the feeling is effortless.

There is something very glorious about feeling that you can control or contribute to your own skincare. Blending treatment oils into serums and applying to them to skin gives you both a sense of satisfaction, because you are doing something that you have tailored for yourself, and it gives you the physical impact that calms the effect of heat or excess cooling. It just brings a moisture level that is unparalleled.

C: Last but not least. As someone who has an eagle-eye view of what’s happening above and below ground of the beauty industry, what exciting things can we expect from the makers of the beauty world, and how is Aesop going to stay ahead of this curve?
S: We can’t speak for others, but we always maintain a keen eye on our own journey, instead of looking outside at what others are doing. The products we create lie at the heart of our company, and have remained our sole focus for thirty-seven years.

We have recently launched two incredible products, namely Immaculate Facial Tonic and Eleos Aromatique Hand Balm, which we foresee potential replications or similar formulations emerging in the market in the near future. With Immaculate Facial Tonic, it is a great pleasure to use this product as it contributes to how incredible your skin feels. The rapid absorption makes it a wonderful product for those who are time poor and living an urban life. Eleos Aromatique Hand Balm recently joined the product category family that is synonymous with our brand. This product leaps into the next stage of looking after people who suffer from the remarkable cruelty of the urban environments with excessive heat or cold, healing their hearts and wrapping their hands with a little bit of love.

Once you are done with this story, click here to catch up with our June/July 2024 issue.