In the indigo-dyed world of Japanese denim, Samurai Jeans stands as a beacon of uncompromising craftsmanship. Founded in 1997 by Toru Nogami, the brand has carved its name into the selvedge-conscious one fade at a time. Samurai Jeans is widely renowned for its unapologetic heavyweight denim, unique texture, attention to detail and Japanese cultural references. The brand name speaks for itself, echoing the nobility, reverence and Japanese spirit of the samurai. As the owner of four pairs of Samurai Jeans, I can personally attest to these. Everything about the jeans feels different — its loose weave and slubby texture bursting with fade potential; you know it is a well-conceived and well-made pair of jeans from the moment you touch it and (struggle to, denim heads will know this) slip it on for the first time.
Beyond the pursuit of craftsmanship and ideals, Nogami-san had a personal mission to create garments, jeans included, that are 100% Made in Japan. This includes the very backbone of denim, t-shirts, etc: cotton. The very idea took root in Nogami-san’s mind sometime in 2008, following a conversation with industry insiders, to create Japanese jeans from Japanese cotton. Here is the caveat: Japanese cotton went “extinct” after producers favoured Western cotton.
Nogami-san was undeterred and literally started the Samurai Cotton Project and his own cotton farm in Okayama before relocating to Sasayama in Hyogo Prefecture three years later. After years of trial and tribulation, Samurai Jeans finally created its first pair of “100% Made in Japan” jeans — the infamous, not-for-sale (according to various sources) $10,000 jeans. The Samurai Cotton Project has since evolved into Cotton Base Sasayama, where guests can experience the cotton farms, spinning, dyeing, and more.
Nogami-san’s denim journey has since brought him to Singapore to visit Denim D’Artisan, purveyors and retailers devoted to the art of all things denim, Japanese included. Nogami-san was in town to launch the exclusive three-way collaborative pair conceived by Samurai Jeans, Denim D’Artisan and Denimheads Singapore, an impassioned community of enthusiasts. United in their journey towards shared values and fades, the enduring spirit of denim was a connector of indigo-blued kindred souls and community. I had the lovely opportunity to speak to Nogami-san about Samurai Jeans’ legacy, craftsmanship, and the road that fades as beautifully as the jeans we walk in.
Your journey with denim began long before Samurai Jeans was founded in 1997. Can you take us back to the moment when your passion for denim first started?
During my days as a student, Japan was experiencing a folk song boom. I enjoyed music too — playing in bands and such. I’ve always felt that fashion and music go hand in hand, and like many musicians at the time, I used fashion as a form of self-expression — often through jeans. From then on, jeans became an indispensable part of my lifestyle.
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The name Samurai Jeans draws deeply from Japanese warrior symbolism. What does the samurai spirit mean to you?
To me, the Samurai Spirit is about staying true to your beliefs and constantly striving to better yourself. Within Samurai Jeans, it means an unwavering pursuit of our ideals and a relentless spirit of craftsmanship and discovery.
Samurai Jeans is known for being one of the most uncompromising Japanese denim brands. What values or philosophies have allowed you to maintain these high standards over the years?
It’s very simple. Our concept is: “Jeans have no value unless the dedication of the maker and the wearer are aligned.” That principle guides all our work. We’re always chasing ideas that haven’t existed — doing what no one else is doing — and we never let go of that mindset.
You’ve stayed true to traditional techniques like rope dyeing and shuttle looms. What do heritage and craftsmanship mean to you personally, and why is it important to pass them on today?
In the fashion world today, pre-faded jeans are sold casually — and I respect that. But Samurai Jeans has always focused on “quality” and the “joy of fading denim yourself.” That means respecting vintage clothing, using traditional techniques, and elevating them further. Craftsmanship makes this possible — and we wouldn’t be where we are without the support of our factory partners. I believe carrying on tradition honours those who came before us, and evolving it with modern technology gives craftsmanship a future.
Samurai Jeans incorporates cultural elements like Mt. Fuji patches, silver lamé selvedge, and battle motifs. How do you choose which Japanese symbols to use in your designs, and why are they important to your brand identity?
Just like our current project, where every stage — from growing the cotton to final production — is done entirely in Japan, Samurai Jeans are never made overseas. That’s because we love Japan and take pride in being Japanese. The name “Samurai Jeans” reflects that pride. We incorporate cultural design elements so people around the world can immediately associate our jeans with Japan. For example, the silver lamé selvedge is inspired by the blade of a samurai’s sword. We want customers to enjoy these intricate details.
After years of dedication, your “Samurai Cotton Project” — which followed the ethos of “making things in Japan, for Japan, in the Japanese way” — has finally borne fruit. What was that journey like for you?
It was a difficult path, but it was something I couldn’t walk away from because of my convictions. After all the time and effort we spent planting seeds and nurturing cotton, seeing it turned into a finished product felt like watching my own child grow up. As the Japanese saying goes, “Continuity (or persistence) is strength” (継続は力なり). I’m truly glad we never gave up.
As a Japanese jeans maker, what does producing 100% Japan-made denim mean to you?
We haven’t yet reached the point where we can show 100% Japan-made denim to the world, but I’m determined to get there. I believe it would be a tremendous achievement for a Japanese jeans brand. It’s an everlasting goal — our mission — and something no one else has done.
Tell us about the “Cotton Base Sasayama” project and what motivated you to start it.
In today’s world, where clothes are mass-distributed, people rarely think about how they’re made or the effort behind them. Through Sasayama Cotton Base, we wanted people to experience the process firsthand and develop a deeper appreciation for their clothes—so they’d value them more and wear them longer. We also collaborate with Sasayama City to use the farm as a learning space for local schoolchildren.
Denim fans are growing in number in Singapore. What’s your impression of the local community and its relationship with Japanese denim culture?
I see it as proof that Japanese denim is appreciated — and that simply makes me happy. It’s wonderful to see more denim fans each year.
The collaboration with Denim D’Artisan and Singapore’s denim community, Denimheads Singapore, holds significant meaning. What attracted you to this project, and what do you hope it means to the fans?
I’ve known for a long time that Singapore has one of the top denim communities globally. Denim D’Artisan has been a great friend, helping us share our story. It’s an honour to work with them. I hope this collaboration becomes a bridge between fans and makers, and that it deepens people’s understanding and appreciation of Japanese denim.
Could you share some of the interesting details of the collaborative jeans?
The cut is the same as our S0510XXII regular straight, which is based on 1950s style jeans. We’re aiming for the same details as the old (vintage) pairs, but we’re updating the product to match the strength of the fabric, such as by using hefty threads for sewing. The fabric is based on our iconic 17oz BUSHIDO denim. This denim is woven by hefty #5 size yarn in low tension using antique looms. With the lower tension, this 17oz denim produces its signature slubby surface. The rough sensation is even more outstanding after the first wash. As a result, it has become the most popular denim in Samurai Jeans.
For its pocket bag, we chose our exclusive bright yellow heavyweight flannel. It is woven with rope dyed indigo yarn, just like our jeans, so it will fade over time, much like our jeans. Additionally, we feature one of the most popular details on the back pockets. We call it “Hidden Arc”, which is made to reveal itself slowly with wear.
What does it mean to you to work with retailers and partners like Denim D’Artisan who share your passion for denim?
It’s no exaggeration to say Samurai Jeans owes its overseas recognition to partners like Denim D’Artisan. I’m deeply grateful. They’ve continued to spread accurate information on our behalf. Because of them, Samurai Jeans exists today. Working together allows us to maintain the same fiery spirit we had when we first started.
You’ve seen Japanese denim evolve from a niche interest to a global icon. Where do you see the denim scene going next, both in Japan and abroad?
Japanese denim will likely become more mainstream as more makers adopt it. However, at the same time, I think truly unique pieces may become increasingly rare. I hope brands that remain rooted in vintage tradition while daring to innovate will be the ones that continue to shine — not those relying solely on the “Made in Japan” label.
Many young brands see Japanese denim as a benchmark. What advice would you offer them on striking a balance between innovation and tradition?
If you approach denim not just as a business, but as a craftsman with pride in quality and attention to detail, that mindset becomes your greatest strength.
Each pair of jeans tells a story as it fades with wear. What does this journey of wear and fade mean to you?
It’s not a journey I’ve walked alone. My jeans have been with me the whole way — my daily companion. That fading represents a piece of my life. It’s like a physical record of my own path.
What is your favourite jeans silhouette and weight (e.g. straight, slim straight, 15oz, 17oz, etc.)?
I prefer a pure straight silhouette — whether narrow or wide. For weight, 17oz is my favourite. It feels great to wear.
Lastly, what do you hope people feel when they first put on a pair of Samurai Jeans?
Of course, I want them to feel the distinct texture that sets us apart. But more than that, I hope they’re moved by the realisation that this high-quality Japanese denim was crafted with care and conviction. I want them to feel that sense of wonder.
Denim D’Artisan is located at 313 Somerset #03-14 & Vivocity #02-56.
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