On 6 November 2021, the ninth edition of the biennial Only Watch 2021 auction conducted by Christie’s will take place for the benefit of research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy under the High Patronage of H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco in Geneva. A series of one-off creations by 54 participating watch manufactures will go under the auction hammer with 99% of proceeds going directly to research projects supported by the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies.
Acts of altruism and compassion go the distance as researchers are poised to reach promising stages of preparation for the first clinical trial in 2022, with the past eight auctions raising more than 70 million euros. The entire collection will be making stops in various cities, starting from 22 September at the Monaco Yacht Show before heading to Dubai, Tokyo, Singapore, Hong Kong and Macau before making the final stop in Geneva at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues.
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Pictured above: TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco
TAG Heuer revisits the legendary “Dark Lord” as the canvas for its Only Watch auction piece — the TAG Heuer Only Watch Carbon Monaco. Taking inspiration from the elusive black-PVD Monaco reference 74033N “Dark Lord” from the 1970s, TAG Heuer ups the ante with an all black carbon fibre case. A matching skeletonised carbon fibre crafted from a single piece bedecks the dial side, offering insights into the movement through the hand-faceted anglage. The rear of the Only Watch Carbon Monaco reveals the manufacture’s motorsports roots on the movement’s bridges and surrounding — a chequered-flag motif hand-decorated in the rare graté technique along with nine other forms of hand finishing. TAG Heuer’s in-house Heuer 02 automatic chronograph movement is fitted with a groundbreaking carbon hairspring for exceptional levels of anti-magnetism and chronometric performance. A hand-painted gradient rotor by master dial artist and micro-painter André Martinez is the icing on the cake. Finishing the unique masterpiece is a leather strap made to mimic a steel bracelet that took months to perfect.
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Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire Only Watch
Bell & Ross’s 2021 edition of the BR 01 Cyber Skull is reimagined in transparency for the Only Watch auction. The ceramic components of the case and skull dial make way for corundum — a crystalline form of aluminium oxide, otherwise known as sapphire. Nine blocks of sapphire are machined in totality for the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire Only Watch — three and six for the case and skull dial respectively. A sapphire case machined by diamond powder, encases a piece of futuristic origami within. The clear structure gives an unobstructed view of the dial and movement, supported by metallised bridges and plates that give the impression of a levitating sculpture. Bell & Ross’s memento mori-inspired skull is replicated in orange according to the emblematic colour of the Only Watch logo and is a nod to the colour of ultimate legibility used in aeronautical instrumentation. Sharp edges and angular treatments bring emphasis and volume to the multifaceted, three-dimensional skull piece and crossbones that conceals the manual winding BR-CAL.209.
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Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum
Bvlgari marks its inaugural participation in the Only Watch auction with the creation of the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum. The current world record holder for the slimmest perpetual calendar (5.80mm thick) is crafted with tantalum — an extremely rare metal used in medical engineering and the nuclear industry — befitting of this unique creation. With its hardness twice that of titanium, tantalum is difficult to machine and requires four times longer to produce than a gold case. The result is incomparable as the tantalum case exudes a natural bluish-grey colour, complemented by a deep blue dial. Elements of the perpetual calendar are presented harmoniously with the date positioned on the upper half and the day of the week, month and leap year indicator at the bottom half. In a nod to the objective of this one-off creation, the graphic design of November recalls the Only Watch abbreviation in a symbolic shade of colour.
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Hermès H08 Only Watch
Hermès’s orange takes on a different significance as the iconic shade is applied to the sporty Hermès H08 Only Watch for a charitable cause. The French Maison presents a dynamic pair of unique H08 interpretations housed in a single presentation box. A titanium bracelet straddles the first version, featuring a titanium case and PVD-treated bezel. A black gold dial is accented with orange numerals in Hermès’s unique typography and features other subtle orange streaks positioned on the second-hand pip, quarterly minute track hashes, sapphire crystal seal and brand name. The other version comes in a PVD-treated titanium case with a similar dial contrasted by white numerals and minute track. Hermès opts for an orange rubber strap to highlight its outgoing nature to match the flashes of orange seen on the dial. Both H08 pieces bear the Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement and are enclosed with an Hermès orange anodised aluminium case back.
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Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon Only Watch 2021
Louis Vuitton capped off its sixth consecutive participation in the Only Watch auction with an ombre Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 edition. The new version of the Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon released earlier this year is the culmination of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking pursuits, supported by the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton workshop. A shot-blasted grade 5 titanium case with 18k pink gold lugs, pushers and crowns provide a contemporary backdrop for the dial details. Red to yellow gradients line the recessed grid dial, complemented by 22 baguette-cut sapphire hour indexes. Not to be confused with a chronograph, the side pushers set the GMT hand at the three o’clock position. The other subdial at nine o’clock reveals an open-worked flying tourbillon finished with the “V” Gaston Vuitton signature, the highlight of the automatic in-house LV82 calibre. The Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 will come housed in a special Monogram canvas trunk hand-painted in the colours of Only Watch.
This story about the Only Watch 2021 first appeared in our September ’21 issue, find it here!
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