With the exit of Kris Van Assche from Berluti amongst others, Men’s Folio predicts the next creative directors at these empty fashion houses.
“The End” — these are the only two words on a caption-less image posted on 23 May on Jean Paul Gaultier’s Instagram. The comments instantly went into a frenzy of panic, with most debating between accepting the announcement as a marketing stunt for a new campaign, or an unexpected closure of the revered French label which has stood four decades strong. The panic is justified, after all it has not been long since founder and creative director Gaultier himself announced his retirement. Just this month, Angela Missoni announced her exit from her family’s business, leaving the creative director’s seat empty and in speculation of who might fill.
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Photo by Anne-Christine POUJOULAT / AFP
The end of an era is one of fashion’s biggest cliches. As contracts for creative directors usually way in between three to five years, quick turnovers are expected. However, that’s not often the case, as we’ve seen creative directors managing Houses that far exceeds a one-time contract. Such is the case of Hedi Slimane, who served as Dior Men’s (then Dior Homme) artistic director from 2000 to 2007, and Saint Laurent from 2012 to 2016, before his current tenure at Celine since 2018. It’s a game of musical chairs, but with fashion creatives.
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Larger conglomerates often follow a trend of hiring experienced directors to helm the creative vision of heritage houses, thus the rotation of names within their brands. But that’s not often the case anymore. Since modern fashion’s early inception, the role of the creative director is usually given to a rising talent in the industry. Yves Saint Laurent took over the House of Dior shortly after his passing, elevating his role as apprentice to master. The case remains the same for Matthew Williams at Givenchy and Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta, who are both young designers in large Houses.
That said, with the news of Kris Van Assche’s exit from Berluti and Kenzo’s empty throne, which young creative will oversee the next generation of these Houses?
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Berluti
Berluti is a House that requires the sensibility of old tailoring techniques executed in a modern, refreshing light. Sounds familiar? New York-based fashion designer Peter Do, and his eponymous label of the same name, has been on the rise for his modern take on tailoring. His experience makes sense, having worked as a designer under Phoebe Philo during her time at Celine (with the accent of course), her philosophy on modern, intellectual dressing has now been reinterpreted by Do.
While Berluti is a menswear-focused label, sublime layering of lightweight, well-fitted suits with modern materials is what the century old House needs today.
However, if a renewed take on menswear is what the House wishes to move their focus to, British designer Stefan Cooke will provide the healthy balance between the avant-garde with his unique craftsmanship techniques that has never been seen before. Think leather coats paired with the diamond cut-outs intricately stitched to perfection.
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Kenzo
Art School London
Kenzo is no stranger to quirks and whims, which was something missing from the new direction set forth by Felipe Oliveria Baptista during his short tenure. We would imagine the House return to the Kenzo made familiar by Humberto Leon and Carol Lim previously. The dream would see British fashion collective Art School London and British designer Charles Jeffery Loverboy taking over the Kenzo House and expanding on its charm.
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Missoni
Missoni is a House that’s quiet, timeless but never boring. It’s the same essence the New York designer duo has carried with their namesake label Eckhaus Latta with printed, dyed prints of earthly, warm tones saturating the streets of New York. We would love to see genderless ready-to-wear options for Missoni.
Once you’re done with this story about who might be the next creative directors at these fashion houses, click here to catch up with our May 2021 issue.
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