Presenting this season’s best in menswear: statement outerwear, extra-long sleeves, pyjama suits and more.
The uniforms of the style soldier have never been a flash in the pan, but this season, it’s the statement outerwear that really declares the military march is on in full force. From its archives, Burberry pulls out an overcoat with red trimming. But it’s the gold embroidery, trims, and buttons at labels like Balmain and Dries Van Noten that really elevate military chic.
That 70’s Show
Back in the day, no one was afraid of being over dressed for an occasion – we are talking about the era of bold, vivacious styling (think fitted pants, butterfly collars, and floral patterns) after all. Now, designers are putting together the ultimate throwback series – with modern interpretations of 1970’s style at Kenzo and Paul Smith. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele goes full on with psychedelic lurex knits and printed suits with flared trousers.
The Extra Mile
It’s not just shirt hems that designers have extended. Instead, elongated sleeves are the detail du jour. At Rick Owens, knits turned into tunics and added to the designer’s signature gender-blender-looks. Prada’s artfully disheveled navy personnel donned button-downs with both semi-detached collars and extra-long sleeves. Meanwhile, Raf Simons teamed XL-sized knits with shorter-sleeved coats for a clever play on proportion.
Surely one of the more avant-garde details of the season, straps secured their place on the runways as the new masculine finishing touch. Commes des Garcons and Yohji Yamamoto make the trend palatable by using sporty straps and clasps, and incorporating them into black suits. Fashion’s rising conceptualist Craig Green, on the other hand, goes bold and almost ninja-like with his idea of protection, placing thick fabric straps over the eyes, arms and waist.
Sure, there’s nothing revolutionary about the appearance of checks come the fall/winter, but there’s simply no escaping tartans, checkerboards and windowpane checks – large or small – now. For the most part, labels like Dior Homme, Prada, Gucci and Valentino are opting for oversized coats, and playing with intentionally mismatched trousers and knits. Should you like your checks in their original conservative form, there’s always the perfectly coordinated checked suit too.