Ermenegildo Zegna
Stefano Pilati’s sophomore season played on dualities as he explores and validates Zegna’s identity. The theme, “City and Nature”, speaks to Zegna’s traditional suiting and the natural fibres that have made them one of the biggest global producers of fine fabrics, but Pilati delves deeper to combine absolute concepts within his collection. Formal with sportswear. Dark tones with light. Structured with fluid. These manifested as “contaminations” (his word): bomber jackets are worn over suits for a banded silhouette; topcoats drape loosely over the body; scarves merged with necklines. There was even an instance of dinosaur spikes running up sleeves. More importantly, Pilati’s journey to the primordial served to dispel the stuffy patrimony of Zegna’s image and redefined it for a younger audience.