Prada
While Miuccia Prada’s past couple of shows had been cinematic sensations, this season, it was determined by experimental theatre. “A lot of Pina Bausch, avant-garde theatre, political, mostly German, affected by Fassbender.” The notion was seen in the performance: Scoop-neck tees borrowed from ballet dancers; a runway wrapped in charcoal grey felt referenced German performance artist Joseph Bueys; live orchestra clashed with heavy metal and German cabaret; the incursion of womenswear. Apart from that, most of the menswear appeared perfectly normal, ordinary even (save for those quilted breastplates). Where previous collections were so definite in their ideas about the clothed body, this one felt strangely and purposefully empty. Then again, Prada is doing avant-garde, so perhaps there’s a statement in there somewhere about her brand or her relationship with fashion. Perhaps more will be revealed in future shows.
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