Keeping to his vision of order, Kris Van Assche, the creative director of Dior Homme, presented a cohesive collection but simultaneously offered variations in different colours, fabrics and silhouettes that lend themselves readily to mixing and matching. True to his ‘less is more’ philosophy, clean formal tailoring was infused with sportiness in boxy minimalist jackets and streamlined pants or shorts. Assche also introduced cubism-like graphics on wool, satin and contrasting metallic patchworks inspired by artist John Chamberlain.
There was no compromise on Hedi Slimane’s collection for Saint Laurent. Only in his first year at this storied house, Slimane has transformed the brand in his own rock and roll image. He sent rebellious, willowy teens down the runway in everything made two sizes too small: skin-tight jeans worn high on the waist, flashy tailored jackets, sheer mesh or striped tops and leather shoes cut dangerously sharp. A compelling season for Saint Laurent, with the brand’s image reinforced and packaged seductively.
Consistency has always been key in Yohji Yamamoto’s signature tailoring and silhouette and this collection is no exception. The look is loose-fitting with light sweeping layers of tunics, soft double-breasted or three-button jackets and calumnious trousers, predominantly in black. Taking black further, he introduced a glistening wet effect in looks at the end of the show, with models strolling leisurely down with umbrellas in hand, as though caught in a drizzle.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Drawing inspiration from Sicily yet again, Dolce & Gabbana channelled Sicilian mythology this season as they presented great Greek monuments such as the Valley of the Temples, in their pieces. The collection is made up of bold prints of antique temples, coins and Greek gods on short-sleeved tops and shorts, interspersed with finely tailored slim suits in shantung silk. A stretch fabric brought forth a taut body-fitting silhouette.
COMMES DES GARCONS
Once again, Rei Kawakubo, designer for Commes Des Garcons, paid homage to the punk spirit and her love for the colour black, is clearly evident. Models with penetrating dark kohl eyes and shiny hair plastered to their scalp donned soft tailored wrinkly jackets often layered with elongated tulle fabric trailing down from the back and juxtaposed against ruched slim silk pants before transitioning into an explosion of cartoon prints and grunge checks but stamped with Kawakubo’s aesthetics of distressed fabrications and deconstruction of shapes.