ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Like delicate hands caressing piano keys sensually, Stefano Pilati’s highly anticipated debut collection for Ermenegildo Zegna hits all the right notes. A soft eggshell coat over a double-breasted suit opened the show and immediately, you understood the lexicon of his clothes. Pilati’s understanding of modern menswear is expressed through a strictly streamlined silhouette, which is simultaneously easy to wear. Tapping into Zegna’s expertise in wool, Pilati manipulated the fabrics by blending silk, linen and wool, to give lightness, fluidity and movement to the clothes. The importance of styling is seen in the subtle details on cotton cuffs holding up the jacket sleeves, along with silk scarves peeking out of the lapels, giving the Zegna man a finish in 33 shades of neutrals, ranging from antique to apricot.
Z ZEGNA
With his visionary collection, Paul Surridge served up a refreshing and updated take on evening wear by blending innovative fabrics with soft tailoring, creating a more youthful but tasteful Z Zegna man. Minimalist cotton dress shirts, tunics, relaxed trousers and jackets with crisp defined lines dominated the runway, all demonstrating an architectural approach. Surridge further explored the possibilities of contemporary fabrications with different blends of technical wool, taffeta and cotton.
Focused and consistent, like all his previous collections, this season was all about tailoring. Creative director Tomas Maier wanted to create a silhouette that was clean, contemporary and precise (quite the German aesthetic) with redefined tailoring techniques. “The collection is more about contrast than anything else,” said Maier. Using lightweight materials ranging from cotton and gabardine to twill, the traditional suit was revised to include sloped shoulders and generous sleeves, paired with narrow pants highlighted with line markings and chalk outlines.
EMPORIO ARMANI
Giorgio Armani delivered light and clean versions of formal and casual wear this spring. As a master of innovative tailoring techniques, Mr Armani achieved lightness in his outerwear offerings through several rounds of laser cutting to create mesh-like perforations on the fabric, as well as bonding techniques (thus doing away with seams and linings), making this collection extremely modern and wearable.
GIORGIO ARMANI
The appeal of Giorgio Armani lies in the subtle play of details in different variations, which is precisely the reason why he churned out more looks than anyone else in Milan in a single show. Titled City in Colours, the palette was in all shades of blue, white and grey dominated by handsome dark navy. Infused with sporty elements, the Armani silhouette was refitted and cinched at the waist to give a body-conscious shape to the jackets over slim-cut tapered trousers.
Creative director Frida Giannini focused on floral prints, inspired by Asian influences like traditional Indonesian batik patterns. To set the tone, she first sent down a floral silk T-shirt paired with a modern take on equestrian riding pants. T-shirts completely replaced shirts in this relaxed collection while silk scarves were tucked under two button jackets, revealing neck and chest. In complement, leather outfits with a sporty sensibility were introduced to give variety to the collection.
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