CAMPAIGN CIRCUIT: Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2014 Pre-collection - Men's Folio
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CAMPAIGN CIRCUIT: Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2014 Pre-collection

  • By Men's Folio

This clean-edged style, mixing casual elements within an urban wardrobe, evolves over three decades and takes its cue from The Factory where Warhol and the creative partners who surrounded him mixed chic and relaxed staples in a sophisticated, artistic way. Within these three time
frames, Louis Vuitton introduces numerous new treatments to lighten and streamline its menswear while maintaining optimum comfort and romoting new textures and patterns.

“We looked at the 60s, 70s and 80s and what was going on in New York then. It was actually a time when Louis Vuitton began selling a lot more in America,” says Kim Jones, Men’s Studio Director. “And we were also thinking about all those people Warhol knew who were really glamorous and ad a complementary almost uniform look. And finally we highlighted the confrontation between the LV Monogram vs. mass market Pop art culture.” The season’s first group sleekly urbanizes the 60s biker jacket in smooth, almost seamless soft brown or black bull leather, in traditional cropped or longer with zip versions worn with light tone chinos. Graphic Breton stripe T-shirts, some with silver edging on the stripes, are worn like tunics over tailored shorts or sleek slacks. This all creates a casual, graphic urbanity characteristic of the era¹s counter culture club scene at CBGBs or Max’s ansas City in a range of gray, cream, warm brown, red and graphic black.

Moving on through New York in the 1970s, an artfully hazy color palette in light beige and slate blues softens tailoring which takes on broader proportions. The accent for minimally-styled, casual shirts and blousons is on gradated “degrade” color stripes which look as though they’ve been air brushed by California Pop artist Ed Ruscha, while the safari jacket loosens up, corduroy mellows the suit, and Halston’s sleek chic is recalled in
the pale, dusty blue suede of a seamless-looking blouson. The gradated stripes are often woven rather than printed using special yarns for an ultra-smooth finish in a unique Japanese technique produced just for Louis Vuitton. Other shadowy gradated color looks are achieved with a gel print which gives the fabrics a light shadow of color while maintaining their lightness and breathability.

In the final group, the colorful silk screen prints of the Big Apple in the 80s inspire Pop figurative patterns like hot dogs for shirts and accessories
which mix with gradated color sweaters and minimalist tailoring in dark, high-tech associations for a wardrobe of soft suiting and sporty pieces in
charcoal grey, beige, clear blue and red. Louis Vuitton worked with a knitwear producer which is particularly strong in programming to achieve these
gradated looks which are extremely fluid and are worked inside out to show off the pixilated texture.

Accessories for this tri-decade Warholian wardrobe include the LV “Neo-Greenwich” clutch-sized bag and the shoulder strap zip tote in new slate blues shades. Matching ties and pocket squares dandify tailoring and figured pattern shawls are refined. Pop art jewelry includes hot dog and heart-shape pretzel charm necklaces,bracelets and lapel broaches. Sunglasses are arty with mixed material branches. Shoes are casually shaped, but
intricately worked in a mix of sport and exceptional materials with tricolor foam soles for deck shoes which show in leather or reptile and a sueded desert boot, dressy low boot with biker straps and a sleek black croc oxford.

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