Patek Philippe
Ref. 5980/1AR-001
In line with the growing trend towards bi-coloured watches, Patek Philippe refreshes its Nautilus lineup with an arresting stainless steel-and-rose gold model where previously, only stainless steel or solid rose gold editions were available. The combination of metals serves to highlight the contrast between warm and cool tones, as well as the manufacture’s legendary finesse in finishing. Here, satin-brushed, polished and matte surfaces are juxtaposed with ease. Aside from the cosmetic change, nothing else has been tweaked: case architecture, movement and level of detailing remain the same. Calibre CH 28-520 C, an automatic chronograph with a power reserve of between 45 to 55 hours, still powers the noble beast.
Rolex
Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 116506 Platinum
Daytona heads expecting any sort of fanfare surrounding the 50th birthday of their favourite timepiece will be in for a surprise. There was nothing of the sort at BaselWorld – no dedicated exhibition chronicling the history of the sporting icon, no celebrity ambassador adding star power to the proceedings, not even an homage to the legendary Paul Newman and his storied association with the legendary watch. Perhaps Rolex is confident of its gravitas. In its new guise, the Daytona sports, for the first time, a platinum chassis. This is complemented by a cerachrom bezel in chestnut brown and a dial in ice blue with a sunray finish. Purists and collectors might baulk at the unusual colour combination, but we’re finding it suitably refreshing.
Omega
Speedmaster “Dark Side of the Moon”
The perennial question that confounds watchmakers is how to reinvent and redefine a classic without compromising its DNA. Such is the quandary that Omega repeatedly finds itself in with its Moonwatch. This year, the answer comes in the form of a all-black ceramic edition. This high-tech material affords enhanced strength and scratch-resistance, making it perfect to use as an everyday watch. Like its precedent, the Co-Axial Chronograph that was launched in 2011, the new Moonwatch features a two-counter chronograph layout rather than three for a more streamlined aesthetic. This is because the sub-dial at 3 o’clock houses both the 60-minute and 12-hour indications. The enlarged sapphire window on the case back is another plus, giving generous views of the engine room, where Omega’s advanced co-axial Calibre 9300, equipped with a silicon balance spring, resides. A Cordura fabric strap completes this handsome offering.
Hublot
Big Bang Unico
Three years since the establishment of its in-house manufacture in Nyon, Switzerland, and a year after the launch of its first in-house calibre, the time-only Unico movement, Hublot trots out its latest technical achievement, the Unico chronograph. Rather than slapping a chronograph module onto the Unico base calibre, the brand took pains to develop its own integrated flyback chronograph mechanism with column-wheel control – which shows resolute commitment to its horological aspirations, if you ask us. The skeletonised dial, which shows off the movement, reflects this pride. The watch is available in Titanium, Titanium Ceramic, King Gold and King Gold Ceramic, and comes with a rubber strap. (King Gold is Hublot’s proprietary gold alloy composed of 75 percent 18K gold and 24 percent copper; the latter imparts an intense red hue).
Tudor
Heritage Chrono Blue
Among the most talked-about pieces at BaselWorld this year was Tudor’s Heritage Chrono Blue, not least because of its sporty, glamorous demeanour that conjures up images of the 1960s jet set and the chic Mediterranean resorts that they populated. Indeed, the 1973 original upon which this modern remake is based was known as the “Montecarlo” chronograph. The new watch remains faithful to the original dial composition, colouration and overall essence, with updates in the form of SuperLuminova-coated numerals and knurled crown and chronograph push-pieces. Movement is the reliable ETA 2892 with an additional module for the chronograph and flyback feature. Two straps are offered, a steel bracelet and a fabric strap that we feel is more emblematic of the watch.
Citizen
Promaster Eco-Drive Satellite Wave-Air
This is the world’s first light-powered watch with a full-metal case that receives time signals from navigation satellites. Citizen also claims that its speed to correct the time is also the fastest among all satellite-synchronised watches. The design of both sides of the titanium case was inspired by the streamlined structures of wings, enhancing the impression of dynamism and lightness. The dial suggests the rotating fan blades of an aircraft engine, which is totally in keeping with a timepiece that draws light and satellite signals from the sky. The dial consists of three transparent layers, over which indexes, windows and hands are laid out respectively, creating an airy floating impression. Globetrotters will appreciate the 26-city world time functionality and day/night indicator, as well as useful features like the power reserve and day-of-the-week indicators.
Louis Vuitton
Tambour Twin Chrono
This is the year of both the Louis Vuitton Cup and America’s Cup. Little wonder, then, that the Maison has unveiled an innovative split-seconds chronograph watch that can measure the time difference between two yachts in a head-to-head race. Two counters keep track of individual boat times while the third provides an easy readout of the difference between the two. The monopusher at 8 o’clock controls all activity: the first push activates the lower two counters; the second push stops the left-hand counter, marking the first boat’s finishing time; simultaneously, the counter at 12 o’clock begins recording the split time; the third push stops the second boat’s time and the split time; and the final push resets all counters to zero. This pioneering feature, housed on Calibre LV175, is the work of La Fabrique du Temps manufacture, owned by Louis Vuitton. Limited to 30 pieces in 18K white gold with a black alligator strap.
Tag Heuer
Carrera MikroPendulum
TAG Heuer’s Carrera MikroPendulum, released as a concept watch in 2012, is finally being rolled off the production line. What’s innovative about the pendulum mechanism, which does away with conventional hairsprings, is that it offers consistently stable amplitude throughout the watch’s lifespan, thanks to four magnets that generate a magnetic field to control the oscillations of the balance wheel. This results in greater timing precision, a key feature in a chronograph, especially one that measures time to the nearest hundredth of a second (indicated on the inner bezel). An important point to note is that the watch comes with two regulating organs – a classic balance wheel system for the timekeeping functions, operating at 28,800 vph (4Hz); and the magnetic pendulum system for the chronograph functions, running at a mind-blowing 360,000 vph (50Hz), on proud display at 9 o’clock. The 45mm titanium case is completed by an anthracite alligator strap.
Girard-Perregaux
Sea Hawk Ceramic
What sets this dive watch apart from the pack? For one, its distinctly masculine good looks – the matte black ceramic finish lends a stealthy, brawny aesthetic. Then there’s the assurance of a top-grade automatic calibre beating at its core, the manufacture movement GP03300-0074 with 46-hour power reserve. Functionality is a given, of course: it is water-resistant to 300m thanks to a solidly constructed case and integrated crown guard (the crown is positioned at 4 o’clock for greater comfort). The unidirectional rotating bezel allows wearers to keep track of their dive times, while luminescent hands and markers provide superior legibility underwater. And as a subtle hint of its watchmaking heritage, the manufacture has endowed the dial with a hexagonal relief pattern reminiscent of its iconic Gold Bridges. A black rubber strap adds the final touch.
