Stefano Pilati might not have ended things on a high-note after his dismissal from Yves Saint Laurent back in February of 2012, but after his meteoric debut collection for Italian menswear behemoth Ermenegildo Zegna’s Spring/Summer 2014, it’s safe to say Pilati has his future in the fashion chromosphere covered.
It’s good to note that Pilati got his beginnings in menswear at Armani back in the early 90s before moving on to Prada in 1995, so the nod to classic Italian tailoring was almost expected. From the subtle and understated colors, the mismatched and contrast layering, the movement and flow that were present in some of the outerwear, the entire collection had that debonair power that a majority of menswear collection lacked this season. It’s also good to note that this collection will be the first of Zegna’s “couture” line, and will cost an estimated 50 percent more than present collections.
Dissecting the collection further, Pilati presented cocoon coats that made a barrier on the models, sharp trenches that follow the precision of the figure, suits that were mismatched in terms of the texture between jackets and pants, outerwear in maxi volume and primary colors, scrunched-up sleeves; everything that Pilati loved to experiment with at Yves Saint Laurent was there, but on a more subtle level. Maybe the formula for such a strong collection might adhere to the fact that Zegna has given a huge financial backing to Pilati? Well whatever the equation is, they need to keep this up cause everyone at Men’s Folio is raving and craving for more!
Photos: Marcus Tondo / InDigital / GoRunway
RELATED ARTICLES
